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Grab the Dremel and let's go.
The water traps all the rock dust so I don't always bother with a dust mask, but if you want to wear one, go ahead.
You will get efficient and thoughtful service from KSQ Technology.
Starting with the burr almost vertical makes it much more prone to slipping out of position as there is no pilot hole yet. It's much easier to begin at a shallow angle to engrave a little pit, and raise to vertical once the hole is deep enough to keep the burr from wandering.
Once the burr is vertical, move it in very small circles (watch the video for a better visual on what I mean), and pretty much just keep on doing that. Some other how-tos on drilling stones I've seen suggest pulsing it up and down, but those were all for coring bits instead of engraving burrs, and in my own experiments I've found that a slight rotational wiggle does a faster job.
Pause every now and then to check the bore depth so you have some idea of how soon the burr will punch through the other side. Pressing too hard at the end could make it chip out the back, and/or punch through the bottom of the container, so back off a little on the pressure when you think you're getting close. There might be a very slight change in the sound or feel of the drill right before it breaks through.
The stone I drilled through for this is an opaque piece of black jasper, but if you've got a more translucent stone, you can check your progress from the reverse by shining a bright light through the stone. I have a small LED flashlight that does a good job at this, though sometimes just an overhead light will do if the stone is very translucent or the hole far enough through. Marking where the hole is and then drilling from the reverse to meet in the middle is a good way to prevent chip-out.
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