Mastering resin 3D printing settings is essential for beginners aiming for high-quality prints. Getting started can be overwhelming&#;there&#;s much to learn before your first print. Common questions include &#;Where do I start?&#;, &#;What resin 3D printing settings should I use?&#;, and &#;What model should I print first?&#; Don&#;t worry; you don&#;t have to figure it all out on your own!
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This guide will help you understand the key resin 3D printing settings you need to know. You&#;ll be prepared to dive into the world of 3D printing with confidence.
If you&#;re still choosing your first printer, check out our guide on how to pick the best 3D resin printer for beginners in . It will help you select the right machine for your needs.
Many online resources are fragmented and only cover small pieces of the puzzle. Resin 3D printing involves various parameters and environmental factors. Focusing on just a few settings rarely resolves issues effectively. Adjusting settings without fully understanding their effects can feel like shooting in the dark.
Our guide explains essential resin 3D printing settings using terminology from popular slicers like Chitubox, Lychee, Voxeldance Tango, Prusa Slicer, and Z-suite. This will give you a clearer picture of what you can control, helping you make better decisions when printing or troubleshooting.
If you&#;re setting up a resin printing space, especially for business, don&#;t miss our Business Resin Printing Setup Guide & Checklist. It offers valuable advice on creating an efficient and safe workspace.
By mastering these resin 3D printing settings, even beginners can achieve superior print quality. Whether you&#;re new or looking to refine your skills, this guide is your go-to resource for optimal results.
Whenever you get a new 3D printer, new resin, or just a failed print that happens for an unknown reason &#; print a calibration part. The selection of free calibration parts available to download is pretty decent these days. However, we always recommend printing our AmeraLabs Town. We believe it is still the most comprehensive test out there. This tiny calibration print helps identify exposure settings and evaluate other factors. For example, it can show if your cleaning procedure is good enough.
A few other calibration parts worth mentioning:
There are no universal perfect settings. But you can find the best settings for the specific model and application.
AmeraLabs town is a tool to find these resin 3D printing settings. Some people rightfully call this calibration part a &#;torture test.&#; That is because almost none of the current 3D printers can print this town 100% as it should be. Thus it shows the limits of your 3D printer and resin with the given settings. In other words, it shows what details can be printed and which ones you will lose with your chosen settings. Therefore, it helps identify if the balance of printed and failed features is acceptable for your intended application.
To illustrate this, we printed these calibration parts with two different exposures. We used AmeraLabs AMD-3 Grey resin on Anycubic Photon Mono 4K 3D printer.
The calibration part on the left was printed with a shorter 1.2s exposure. We have all vertical and horizontal gaps open. Tiny windows on buildings are all open and well defined. We have four rows of pins and a little bit wobbly antenna tower. The chess pattern is also pretty good; however, it indicates some under-cure as the corners do not meet perfectly.
The town on the right was printed with longer 2.2s exposure. The smallest vertical and horizontal gaps are closed, and windows on the buildings are smaller than intended. However, we ended up with five rows of pins and a straight antenna tower. Moreover, the chess pattern is also perfect.
The 1.2s exposure setting might be great for prints that need sharper negative details and clear surface textures. Also, those that do not have many positive features like standing hair. But these settings might not be that great for bigger, heavier models supported with thin supports.
The 2.2s exposure setting might be good for bigger, heavier parts. Such settings can be used for models that require good positive details and can accept the small loss in negative features. Supports printed with these settings will be pretty strong too.
The results of both of these prints are different. However, those different settings might be perfect for different uses. In other words, you must find your best resin 3D printer settings for your model, resin, and other conditions. So let&#;s dive in to discuss how different settings will impact your 3D printing results.
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Also called layer height in some slicers.
This is the height of a single layer. You can freely choose this setting.
You will need shorter exposures for thinner layers, but the printer will print more layers overall. So even if a single layer cure time is shorter, the whole printing time will be longer with thinner layers.
The thicker the layer &#; the shorter your printing time will be. However, you will lose details with thicker layers, and the layer lines will be more visible.
The most commonly used layer thickness is 50 μm (0.05 mm). The layer lines are not very apparent at this thickness without closer inspection. You can use this layer thickness for miniatures, dental models, prototypes, etc.
For highly intricate parts, jewelry, and miniatures, people go with 20&#;&#;30 μm heights. At this layer height, lines become barely visible to the naked eye. However, your 3D prints will take around 1.5&#;&#;3 times longer at this layer height compared to the 50 μm height.
For faster printing, bigger mechanical parts, prototypes, and some dental applications, people 3D print with 100 μm layers. Layer lines are visible to the naked eye. But it takes much less time to print such models.
Here are a few examples printed with AmeraLabs AMD-3 Grey resin on Anycubic Photon Mono 4K 3D printer.
You can see that the 100 μm layers have visible lines. However, it could be used for bigger models and quick printing.
At 50 μm, layer lines are less visible. This layer height is great for most models.
The model printed with 20 μm layer thickness has almost no visible layer lines. So it is great for jewelry, highly detailed miniatures, highly accurate dental models, and mechanical parts.
Printing with 10 μm layer thickness produces similar results to 20 μm. However, it takes a lot of time to print the same model. Usually, it is not worth the time.
To sum up, you can use whatever layer thickness you like. If we dig deeper, there are some tricks to get the best results by using layer heights aligned with Z-axis motor steps. But in most cases, you&#;ll be fine if you stick with 5 μm multiples for layer height. We always recommend experimenting with that to see what gives you the best results. Take into consideration the time it takes to complete the print and the quality you get with different layer heights. Finally, have different settings ready for different layer heights. This way, you will quickly take the best resin settings for the model you want to print.
Most 3D printer resins are designed to print well with layer heights between 10&#;&#;100 μm. &#;High resolution&#; resins will perform better with layer heights below 50 μm. While some &#;draft&#; resins will work better with layer heights of 100&#;&#;200 μm.
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Resin manufacturers think about the intended layer height when they design their resins. We adjust light blocking components so that light does not penetrate too deeply into the resin, resulting in light bleed. For example, add too much pigment, and the light will not get deep enough to cure layers to each other. That would result in layers separating. While too little pigment will result in parasitic light bleed, causing models to lose details. Ask your resin manufacturer what layer height is best for your selected resin.
Finally, the quality of 3D prints depends not only on layer height but also on the XY resolution of your 3D printer. This XY resolution is the pixel size of a 3D printer&#;s LCD screen or DLP projector, or a laser spot size in a laser based 3D printer. Usually, it is between 20 μm and 90 μm. In other words, even if you print with very thin layers, the quality is still limited by the fixed XY resolution of your 3D printer. So consider that when choosing the right layer height.
Also, it is harder to print horizontal &#;bridges&#; when 3D printing with very thin 10&#;&#;30 μm layers. To test the distance you can bridge with your 3D prints, print this calibration part: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:.
Also called exposure time, layer exposure time, or layer cure time in some slicers.
Exposure time defines how long the 3D printer will expose resin to UV light to cure one layer. It is often measured in seconds or milliseconds. This setting is one of the most critical ones in defining the quality, sharpness, and success of your 3D print.
Layers won&#;t stick to each other if your exposure time is too short. Connections between layers will be too weak and may break during printing. This often results in failed supports or layers separating mid-print.
This is called under-exposure.
If the exposure time is just a little too short, the positive features of your models will be thinner and smaller. In contrast, the holes and other negative features will be larger than expected.
This is also called under-exposure.
Positive features will be slightly expanded if the exposure time is just a little too long. In contrast, negative features will get smaller.
This is called over-exposure.
If the exposure time is way too long, your overall model will look bloated, and holes will be filled with cured resin.
This is also called over-exposure.
You will have to print several calibration parts to find the right exposure settings for your resin. Print them with different exposures and decide which exposure time gives you the best results.
Check your resin manufacturer&#;s website for recommended settings for your resin and printer. Those resin 3D printer settings won&#;t be very accurate, but they are still a good starting point. Print with those recommended settings and then several more calibration parts with 10&#;20% longer and 10&#;20% shorter exposure times.
For AmeraLabs resins, we have this list of recommended settings.
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Do not blindly trust settings recommended by manufacturers, friends, or folk on Facebook groups. Always test those settings and adjust based on your results.
Exposure time depends on the reactivity of the resin, but also some other factors. For example, room temperature impacts resin curing speed significantly. The warmer resin will cure faster, while the colder ambient temperature will slow down the curing speed. That means that you might need to use longer exposures in winter.
In general, the recommended room temperature is around 25°C. If your room temperature drops below 20°C, you may notice issues with your 3D prints.
Finally, there is no perfect exposure. You always have to choose the right duration based on what you are trying to print. For example, it&#;s quite common to 3D print pre-supported miniatures. Sculptors of such miniatures always try to minimize support marks on their models. Thus they use supports with very thin tips of 0.1&#;0.3 mm. Unfortunately, not every 3D printer and resin can successfully print with such small tips. These often result in models detaching from supports. You can either add additional thicker supports or slightly increase your exposure time to overcome this. Increasing exposure will make supports a bit thicker and stronger, but you might lose some details on your miniature. While adding additional supports will add a few support marks on the model that you will have to sand after support removal. Both solutions are perfectly fine; choosing which is better is up to you.
Also called bottom exposure time, initial exposure time, or base layers exposure in some slicers.
The printer cures a few initial layers with longer exposures to help a model stick better to the build plate. This lays a good foundation upon which the remaining model is then built. The longer the bottom layer exposure, the better the model will stick to the build plate.
Recommended exposure times for burn-in layers vary a lot.
For color LCD 3D printers, we recommend making it around 8-12 times longer than your normal layer exposure time.
For monochrome LCD or DLP 3D printers, make the bottom layer exposure around 5-8 times longer than your normal layer exposure time.
If your normal layer exposure is around 3 s, then the burn-in layer exposure should be around 15&#;&#;25 s.
If your normal layer exposure is around 7 s, then the burn-in layer exposure should be around 70&#;80 s.
Using 15&#;20 times longer exposures is acceptable for big and heavy prints. But we do not recommend that in most cases. Double-check other factors if you need such long exposures (look at the resin manufacturer&#;s recommendations).
All in all, you should experiment with this burn-in layer exposure time setting. Start with a longer exposure value and print something. If it is extremely hard to remove the model from the build plate, it may indicate that your exposure is too high. Lower it and try again.
You should probably increase burn-in layer exposure if your model falls off the build plate (and nothing is left on the build plate) or it partly detaches from the build plate.
Burn-in layer exposure is a key setting related to model adhesion to the build plate. But it is not the only one. If you start having issues with build plate adhesion, look at other factors as well.
If you can, hollow your prints and add vent holes. Hollowing highly reduces the suction that the printer has to overcome when peeling the model from FEP. Thus, you won&#;t need the build plate adhesion to be that high.
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Some 3D printer manufacturers recommend sanding the build plate slightly with 100&#;&#;200 grit sanding paper. When doing so, you want to keep your build plate even. So be careful not to make any big divots. Instead, slightly roughen the surface of the build plate.
Build plate adhesion failures could also happen because of the uneven build plate. Sometimes printers come with defective non-flat build plates straight from the factory. There used to be such cases quite often in the past. Though, nowadays the quality of desktop 3D printers is much better. To check if your build plate is flat, you&#;ll need a metal straight edge ruler and a flashlight. Place a ruler on the build plate and shine with a flashlight at the touching edge. You&#;ll notice the gaps right away.
There&#;s a good tutorial made by MatterHackers here: &#;How To: Perfectly Level Your Resin 3D Printer&#;s Build Plate.&#;
Also, models do not stick to the build plate well if it goes out of level. So just relevel your build plate if that happens.
Additionally, when FEP or nFEP (PFA) is too tight, loose, or worn out, you may have issues with models being pulled off the build plate.
Finally, we do not recommend lubricants on FEP or other adhesion promoters on the build plate. You don&#;t need to use them with most resins. These are a waste of money and don&#;t solve the underlying problems. You are basically treating the symptoms instead of digging deeper and finding the underlying reason why your 3D prints do not stick to the build plate. So before turning to such products, just relevel, increase burn-in layer exposure, check the quality of your FEP, and investigate all other options.
Also called the number of bottom layers, bottom layer count, or number of base layers in some slicers.
This sets the number of layers that must be exposed with higher &#;burn-in layer exposure time.&#; These first few layers are exposed longer to create a good foundation that sticks very well to the build plate.
It depends on the raft thickness you have on your model. You can read more about rafts here: 3D printing raft in resin 3D printing: what you need to know.
The number of bottom layers with prolonged exposure should be at least two layers higher than the number of layers in the raft. This will ensure that the entire raft is well-cured and that the first two layers of supports also get cured a little bit. This creates a stronger base for the supports and adheres them very well to the raft.
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We recommend using 2&#;4 layer rafts. Then:
If your model partly delaminates in the middle of your raft, then the number of bottom layers may be off. Our previous article covered this setting extensively: Why should you not use default 3D printing raft settings?
Some people recommend increasing the number of bottom layers to increase adhesion to the build plate. That is not true. In fact, in perfect conditions, 1 bottom layer is more than enough to cure the model to the build plate. However, we recommend having 2&#;&#;6 bottom layers for these reasons:
Also called faded layers in some slicers.
Transition layers are the layers between the bottom and normal layers. If you set the transition layer count to zero, you will print normal layers with normal layer exposure immediately after printing bottom layers with prolonged exposure. Transition layers allow a gradual transition from bottom to normal layers by gradually lowering exposure time over several transition layers. According to Chitubox, transition layers are meant to increase adhesion between layers.
First of all, not every 3D printer supports this setting. So don&#;t be surprised if it does not make any difference, even if you set something there in the slicer.
Second, you can perfectly print with 0 transition layers as long as you set the bottom layers right. Therefore, we haven&#;t found much use for this setting yet. So start with 0 transition layers.
Start without any transition layers at first. Consider adding transition layers if you see layers delaminating between your base and normal layers.
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Lift height is the distance the build plate moves up between layers to separate the printed model from the FEP.
The perfect lift height will be high enough to peel the model from the FEP.
If your FEP is thinner, it will be stretchier. Thus, with 50 μm FEP, you might need a higher lift than with 127 μm FEP. If the FEP is large (as in 10-inch printers or bigger), you might also want to use a higher lift. Moreover, if the FEP is loose, you will also need a higher lift. Finally, the needed lift height might also depend on the resin used and its properties.
Our recommended resin 3D printing settings page recommends using 10 mm lift height for bottom layers and 7 mm for normal layers. This is a conservative recommendation. And it&#;s more than enough to peel models from the FEP in most circumstances.
Experiment with this setting once you get comfortable with resin 3D printing and get consistently good prints. See if you can determine the minimum lift height needed to peel the model off the FEP. By lowering this setting, you can significantly shorten the duration of your 3D printing sessions.
Also called platform lift speed in some slicers.
Lift speed is the speed at which the build plate rises from the bottom to the top after each layer&#;s exposure. This speed also defines the speed at which the model is peeled off the FEP.
There are two schools of thought and some controversy regarding this topic. Most manufacturers, including AmeraLabs, recommend using lower lift speeds. This way, your 3D printer will slowly peel the model from FEP without introducing unnecessary stress. This is especially important for inexperienced users as we do not want to add additional factors to an already complicated 3D printing process. We recommend using 40&#;&#;60 mm/min lift speed for normal layers and 5 mm/min for bottom layers.
However, recently some people started experimenting with higher lift speeds and determined that a speed above 180 mm/min works as well as a slower lift speed. People call this faster lift speed &#;Vroom&#; settings. We even know some professionals who successfully use 300 mm/min lift speed. Such fast lift speed significantly reduces 3D printing time and thus is an attractive option to try. However, keep in mind that many cheaper desktop 3D printers are not always built out of high-quality materials. Thus, what works for one may not work as well for another. Also, the supports must be placed very thoughtfully to be able to print with &#;Vroom&#; speed. Therefore, the overall feedback from people who tried printing with fast lift speed is mixed.
Here are a few popular YouTubers who talk about their experience with &#;Vroom&#; settings in resin 3D printing: Uncle Jessy, 3D Printing Pro.
If you are new to 3D printing, start with a slower lift speed. Then, feel free to experiment and try faster lift speeds once you are comfortable and consistently get good prints.
Be careful; some slicers measure this setting in mm/s, while others mm/min. So, for example, 1 mm/s would convert to 60 mm/min.
You can now set different lift speeds for different sections of the lift sequence in newer slicers. This way, you can slowly peel the model from FEP and then quickly lift the remaining distance. Chitubox calls this option TSMC (Two-Stage Motion Control).
However, you only need to lift the build plate high enough to peel the model from FEP. So when the second lift stage would be useful is not clear.
Finally, some printers have a maximum lift speed limit built-in. Unfortunately, these override your slicer&#;s lift speed settings. Thus, don&#;t be surprised if the printer is still slow, even if you set a 300 mm/min lift speed.
Also called platform lower speed in some slicers.
Retract speed is the speed at which the build plate lowers down into the VAT.
Use whatever retract speed your 3D printer manufacturer recommends. Usually, it is between 150&#;&#;400 mm/min. This speed rarely has any impact on the quality of your prints.
A slower retract speed will make your 3D printing session longer.
For very viscous resins, we recommend using a lower retract speed. It will create less turbulence and allow the resin to escape underneath the build plate easily. However, for most resins, the impact of retracting speed is negligible.
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Also called light-off delay, exposure off time, total off time, rest time before lift, or rest time after lift in some slicers.
There was a mess with terminology regarding rest time after retracting for a long time. Most 3D printers and slicers have this setting, but usually under a different name. Some call it wait-time, some light-off delay, some rest time.
Essentially, this setting allows adding a delay to the exposure after the build plate retracts to its lowest position. Right after the build plate reaches the bottom, it stops, and the system waits for this pre-defined duration. Only after this pause it turns on the light source and starts the exposition of the new layer. After retracting, this rest time brings more time to fully squeeze resin out of the gap between the model and FEP.
0.5 s to 1 s is generally enough for the resin to stop moving. However, it takes longer for viscous resins to get still, so you will need longer rest time after retract. In contrast, liquid resins will need a shorter rest time.
But you must be careful. Different resin 3D printers treat this setting differently. Some 3D printers require to enter the duration of a complete layer preparation cycle. In Chitubox, it is called Light-off Delay. It looks like this:
While with other 3D printers, you just use pure rest time. In Chitubox, it is called Rest Time After Retract. It looks like this:
Since slicers treat rest time after retract setting differently, observe how your 3D printer behaves during printing. Run a so-called &#;dry run.&#; Print something without any resin in VAT and check if there&#;s actually a pause for a second before each layer exposure. If not, adjust this setting until you find the right one to give your printer some rest between the end of retraction and new layer exposure. If there is not enough rest time after retract, you might notice an uneven surface called &#;blooming&#; on your prints. We have covered that in this article: https://ameralabs.com/blog/light-off-delay-blooming/
In general, resin 3D printers have LCD screens that operate with black and white pixels. When the pixel is &#;black,&#; it does not allow light to go through, and resin is not cured. However, when the pixel is &#;white,&#; the UV light gets through the LCD screen and cures resin above that pixel.
However, Anti-aliasing sets the pixels on the edges of the model to grey color, creating smoother transitions between layers and reducing the pixelation effect.
By using Anti-aliasing, you can get smoother prints, less visible layers, and pixel lines. However, theoretically, you might lose some details on the intricate parts of your model.
You can learn more about anti-aliasing from this great explanation video by Autodesk: Sub-pixel resolution for DLP 3D printing.
Dennys Wang has found that Anti-aliasing level 0 or 2, grey level 0, and image blur pixel 2 gives the best results. You can see his video here: How To Get Smooth Surface With Print Angle And Antialiasing. He also mentions that using Anti-aliasing does not result in loss of details.
If you are new to 3D printing &#; start without anti-aliasing. It will give you a better understanding of what your printer is capable of. Once you get consistently successful prints and want to improve the results, then try anti-aliasing.
Also called LED power, Light PWM, or UV Light power.
Some 3D printers have the option to change the output power of their LEDs. This means that the LEDs can produce more UV light; thus, the resin could cure faster.
We recommend leaving the default setting that was on the printer when you initially received it.
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By default, UV power is usually set to 60&#;&#;100%. You can increase this setting up to 100% in order to print faster with shorter exposures. However, by increasing the UV power, you will shorten the life of your LCD screen. UV light and heat destroy LCD screens, so be careful with this setting.
Remember, it&#;s always a good idea to consult with the manufacturer of your 3D printer.
As we have mentioned several times in this article, you have to adjust your resin 3D printing settings based on what you want to print. You also have to take into consideration several other factors.
The way you support your 3D prints matters. Based on what supports you have on your model, you might need to adjust your resin 3D printer settings accordingly.
On the one hand, you can print with thick supports, faster print speeds, and shorter exposures. However, thick supports will leave scars on your model that you will have to sand down. On the other hand, you can add very thin supports and print slowly with longer exposures. There will be fewer support scars, but 3D printing will take longer. On top of that, longer exposures might result in losing details on the model.
Do you 3D print pre-supported miniatures? Usually, supports are very thin on these. As a result, you might not have much choice but to increase exposure and print slowly or add a few additional supports.
Do you 3D print big heavy models? You might want to use both longer exposures and many thick supports to hold it in place firmly.
Do you 3D print jewelry? The models could be so intricate that you would have to use proper exposure. As well as a few very thin supports and very slow lift speeds.
Do you 3D print dimensionally accurate models? The exposure must be perfect. Supports must be thoughtfully placed to support dimensionally important parts of the model. All other factors must be taken into consideration to maximize success.
Supports used also depend on the resin properties. For example, flexible resins require thicker supports, while hard resins will print well with thinner supports.
Always orient your models so that the cross-section of each layer is as small as possible. Also, avoid quick transitions between small and large cross-sections.
However, sometimes you just can&#;t orient the model the way you&#;d like. For example, there are occasions when you can&#;t place supports on some sides of the model. For example, you rarely want to place supports on the face of a tabletop gaming miniature. Sometimes, the model is so big that it just doesn&#;t fit inside the printer in certain orientations. If you see that your model will have large cross-sections no matter what, switch to more conservative resin 3D printing settings.
In general, the recommended resin temperature is around 25&#;&#;35°C. If your room temperature drops below 20°C, you may start noticing issues with your 3D prints.
Solid models will stick to FEP more than hollow ones. They will also be heavier. If possible, you should always hollow your models. Use a wall thickness of 1&#;&#;4 mm. We recommend 1 mm for smaller models and more for larger models.
Thinner walls will separate from FEP more easily. However, models with thin walls will also break more easily.
Lastly, don&#;t forget to add vent holes when hollowing your models.
Lastly, when you need to print big models that use up a lot of expensive resin, you want to use conservative 3D printing settings. Do whatever you can to lower the risk of failure, even if printing takes a bit more time. Remember, failure will cost you way more &#; it will cost time and resin to reprint the whole model.
But if you need to print tiny unimportant personal models, then you can go crazy and try out new settings. Such failures won&#;t cost much to reprint. You can even print several parts of the same model at once. So, if one fails during the printing, others might succeed.
To sum up, there are no perfect resin 3D printing settings in this imperfect world. The best you can do is find the most optimal settings for the model you want to print on your 3D printer. And you can do that only when thinking about the broader picture: your model, supports, orientation, environmental factors, risk tolerance, etc. Hopefully, this article will help you better understand what factors will influence your prints and in what way. Good luck!
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A: Determining the right exposure time and layer thickness for your resin 3D prints can be a trial-and-error process. Factors like the resin type, model complexity, and desired printing speed all play a role. Start by consulting the manufacturer&#;s recommendations and then conduct test prints with varying exposure times and layer thicknesses. Keep in mind the trade-offs between print quality, printing time, and resin usage. TGM-7 users should consult Key Strategies For 3D Printing With TGM-7 Resin blog post for more detailed insights.
A: If you&#;re facing issues with build plate adhesion despite adjusting burn-in layer settings, there are several troubleshooting steps you can take. Check the tension of the FEP sheet, ensure the build plate is properly leveled, and inspect for any defects or irregularities. Additionally, consider hollowing your prints and adding vent holes to reduce suction forces. Our Resin 3D Printing Troubleshooting blog post provides comprehensive guidance on addressing build plate adhesion and other resin 3D printing problems.
A: Experimenting with higher lift speeds or UV power settings can offer potential benefits such as faster print times but may also introduce risks like reduced print quality or accelerated wear on printer components. Start with conservative settings recommended by the manufacturer and gradually adjust them while monitoring print quality. Be aware of the limitations of your specific 3D printer and resin type. For detailed insights and recommendations on optimizing lift speeds, refer to our 9 Settings to Change for Faster Resin 3D Printing blog post.
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