This article has a companion video you will see below. Whether you like watching or reading, I hope this helps you!
This article has 3 sections.
1) What equipment to get
2) How to shoot a bow
3) How to be successful at archery.
For the sake of beginners, we have oversimplified many topics. This should be a great starting point for anyone considering archery. I hope you enjoy it!
Section 1 - Equipment
1. Difference in bow poundage (compound VS. traditional)
Traditional bows, such as longbows and recurve bows, are more difficult to pull than compound bows. This is because traditional bows do not have the same mechanical advantages that compound bows have, such as cam systems and pulleys. As a result, a traditional bow of the same draw weight as a compound bow will require more effort to pull which is neither good nor bad just something to keep in mind when getting into archery.
For example, a modern 70 lb compound bow is roughly equivalent &#;in terms of the amount of strength required to hold at full draw&#; as a 35 lb traditional bow. This is because the compound bow's cam system and pulleys reduce the amount of strength needed to hold the bow at full draw. Traditional bows generally are not held at full draw as long as compound bows for most styles of shooting. My advice is to start low and then build on poundage later this is not a strong-man competition it is an accuracy game and bow poundage does a lot less for you than good consistent form. And good consistent form is built through repetition and you can do more repetitions at lower poundages.
2. Bow poundage to buy
When purchasing a bow, it is important to consider your own physical capabilities. A general rule of thumb is to choose a bow with a draw weight that is half of your maximum draw weight. This will allow you to shoot the bow with greater accuracy and for longer periods of time because you will be able to hold the bow steady.
Think about it like doing pull-ups. I can do 1 pull-up easily. 10 gets hard 100 in a row no chance. Yes, rest helps but In pull-ups, my 100th pull-up would be a set of 3 rather than 10 and my first pull-up would look easy compared to the 100th pull-up. We want shot #1 and 100 to be of equal difficulty, and if we want to get stronger we can train the muscles outside of shooting a bow like by doing pull-ups. If you want to go out and shoot 100 arrows each archery session. It would be a good idea to get a bow that you can comfortably shoot 100 times rather than 10 times or once.
Once muscle fatigue sets in the following shots become less and less productive to getting better at archery. &#;We will talk more about this in section 3 how to be successful at archery.&#;
A bow with a draw weight that is too heavy for you will be difficult to hold steady, which can lead to inaccuracy. Additionally, it can also cause strain and fatigue in the muscles, making it difficult to shoot for extended periods of time. By choosing a bow with a draw weight that is half your maximum, you can shoot with greater accuracy and for longer periods of time, thus allowing you to enjoy the sport more and build good habits.
3. Test with an exercise band.
Most average men start in between 30 and 45 lbs with a traditional bow. My wife finds it comfortable to shoot a 25lb traditional bow and a 40lb compound bow. If you have a friend or an archery shop you can get a gauge for what poundage would be right for you. One of my favorite methods is to use an 8&#; band Test with an exercise band.
Again higher poundage does not mean you are better than others at archery. Faster cars do not make you better at driving, they actually increase your chance of wrecking. No need to have a fast car if the goal is to get to work safely. But if your goal is to break the sound barrier then go ahead with the ridiculously high draw weight.
4. Different types of bows
The difference in longbow recurve and reflex-deflex bows Longbows: recurve bows, and reflex-deflex bows are all types of traditional archery bows,, but they have distinct differences in design and function.
Longbows are the simplest and most traditional of the three types. They are typically made from a single piece of wood and have a classic D-shape when unstrung. The bow's limbs are relatively straight, and the string is attached directly to the tips of the limbs. Longbows are known for their smooth draw and natural feel, but they tend to be a bit slower than the other two types of bows as far as arrow speed goes.
Recurve bows, on the other hand, have limbs that curve away from the archer at the tips. This design allows for a more compact bow and also increases the efficiency of the bow by storing more energy in the limbs. The result is a bow that can shoot arrows faster and farther than a longbow of the same poundage. Recurve bows are the most popular overall traditional bow design and are commonly used in hunting, target shooting, and competition.
A reflex-deflex bow is a type of longbow that has reflexed limb tips and a deflexed grip. The reflexed limb tips cause the bow to store more energy in the limbs, similar to a recurve bow. The deflexed grip, on the other hand, makes the bow more stable, allowing for more accurate shooting. This type of bow is also known for its smooth draw and natural feel. I like to say it&#;s the best of both worlds.
5. Go to your local shop
If you have a local bow shop you can often go test bows out first before you commit. Maybe one day I will have a local shop of my own!
6. Buy From a place that offers returns
You can also buy from a place that allows returns like&#; shatterproof Archery or Amazon.
7. Bowstrings
Every bow I have bought comes with a bowstring and if you're just starting it's no problem to shoot that first. There are two types of bowstrings endless loop and flemish twist. Both of these methods are describing how the string is made. The flemish twist is widely known as the more premium string. If you don't want to do research on bowstrings get a flemish twist D97 string and you will be good to go. If you want to do research check out the archery library or any of the 25 videos on the shatterproof archery youtube channel about bowstrings.
8. Finger protection
When shooting traditional archery, most archers choose to use gloves or tabs to protect their fingers from the string, although some prefer bare fingers. A glove, typically made of leather, is worn on the hand that holds the bowstring and acts as a barrier between the string and the skin. Tabs, on the other hand, are small pieces of leather or sometimes other material that are attached to the fingers and provide a surface for the string to rest against. Both gloves and tabs are used to prevent injury and calluses from forming on the fingers, as well as to improve the overall grip on the string. Some archers prefer gloves because they are intuitive to use, while others prefer tabs because they allow for lots of flexibility in aiming methods. Some people like to feel the string more, and this is achieved through the thickness of the glove or tab. In most cases, a glove will have thinner leather than a tab. Ultimately, the choice of gloves or tabs is a matter of personal preference and what feels most comfortable for the individual archer.
9. Arm guard and arm protection
Arm Guards are an important piece of equipment for traditional archers because they provide protection for the inner forearm from the string slap. String slap is when the bowstring hits the inside of the archer's forearm during the release of the arrow. This can cause redness, bruising, and even cuts or abrasions. It's made of leather or other durable materials and its design can vary from simple straps to more elaborate designs with padding for added comfort. Armguards are a useful and necessary piece of equipment for traditional archers as it can prevent injury and discomfort, and allows archers to shoot more comfortably and accurately.
10. How to string a bow
There are a couple of methods to stringing a bow but first a quick warning, beginner archers sometimes will look at a recurve bow and want to string it backward. Don&#;t do that, it doesn&#;t work. Remember that with a recurve bow, the limbs will bend away from you when the bow is unstrung. The side of the bow closer to you is called the belly of the bow and that is the side the string goes on, the side further from you is called the back of the bow.
One method of stringing a bow and the safest way for you and your bow is with a bowstringer. Take the top loop of the bowstring and slide it down the top limb. The top loop is usually larger than the bottom. Put the bottom loop in the string groove and place the bowstringer over the bottom loop. Slide the other end of the bowstringer on to the top limb, step on the string with one or two feet, and pull the bow up towards the ceiling. As you pull up, slide the top loop into place and release the pressure. The bow is now strung.
Another method of stringing a bow is with your leg. This method works great you just have to be careful with the tip of the bow. I like to put the tip on a soft surface to string the bow this way. Put the bottom loop on the bow, Step between the bow and the string, and bend the bow over your leg.
11. Nail knot floss and brass nocking points. (Make this video First link to it)
A nocking point is a great way to increase consistency. A nocking point is just a marker showing where to nock the arrow every time. There are a couple of ways to add a nocking point to your bowstring, check out this video.
12. Trad bows use feathers instead of veins
When getting arrows for your traditional bow you will want the fletching to be feathers or foldable, this is because trad bows usually have an arrow shelf rather than an arrow rest.
13. Arrow tuning
The main thing here is to match stiffness to poundage so the arrow flies straight. This is much easier to learn through a video so here is the link
14. Targets
There a many inexpensive options for a target to shoot. The most inexpensive is probably stump shooting (explain stump shooting) or shooting a steep bank. You can often go to your local archery shop for an indoor range, often cities have stationary or 3d ranges that are low-cost. If you want to shoot in your own backyard or set up your own target you can buy a cheap target for $20 or you can build your own by using cardboard and a ratchet strap, strap it tight and shoot between layers of cardboard rather than through the layers to easily pull the arrow out. You can also use a hay bail, a box full of old t-shirts or your neighbor's truck.
Section 2 - Shooting the bow
15. Get close- big target - safe backdrop
It's hard to feel the freedom to improve at archery when you are scared of shooting your neighbor's truck. Get close to a large target with a safe backdrop.
16. Drawback to what is comfortable/ anchor point
Your anchor point is where your hand rests, usually on your face and this is another way to improve consistency. You want your anchor point to be exactly the same every shot because if it is not, your sight picture will stay the same while your arrow flies in different directions.
17. Cant the bow
Cant the bow so arrow does not fall off the arrow rest. Grip the bow with your hand gently let your thumb and index finger gently touch without squeezing the bow like a hammer.
18. Pull back multiple times before shooting
Do this for the comfort of the draw, do it 10 or 25 times.
19. What is dry firing and why to avoid it
Dry firing the bow is shooting the bow without an arrow. This does not seem like it would be a big deal but it is. Dry firing can actually break your bow. Feel free to draw a bow without an arrow but never fire it without one.
20. Surprise Release
With competitive price and timely delivery, Bertillo sincerely hope to be your supplier and partner.
Relax your fingers and let the string slip through You don't need to know exactly when the string releases. When you grip the string it should be like carrying a bucket and with your wrist straight and fingers bent. And when you release the string it should be like dropping a bucket.
21. The goal is to have a good time and let arrows fly initially.
Do not let the number of details you could learn to keep you from nocking an arrow and letting it fly.
22. If you are competitive compare yourself to yourself.
Measure your shots and take the average of every 10 or maybe average every session.
23-25 Aming preferences 3 types
Aiming with a traditional bow is different than aiming with a compound bow and it is part of what makes traditional archery so much fun. Compound bows usually have sight and you line the pin up with the target. Traditional bows usually don&#;t have sights which is why people use instinctive, gap, and string walking to aim.
23. Quick overview of instinctive
Instinctive shooting is basically focusing on the target, the very smallest point you want to hit, and letting your subconscious aim.
24. Quick overview of gap
With gap, you use the tip of the arrow to aim. You find your point on at say, 30 yards so if you were at 20 you would aim low and if you were at 40 you would aim high.
25. Quick overview of string walking
String walking is moving your hand up or down the string to adjust for distances rather than aiming high or low. If you shot three under and your point on was 30 yards, then at 20 yards you would slide your hand maybe 1 inch down the string and still aim with the point of the arrow.
Section 3 - How to be successful in archery
26. Know your goals. Competition, hunting, fun, relaxing hobby, community building, long distance, horseback riding, heavy draw, or accuracy ext.
27. Judge your success on how you are achieving your goals, not other people's goals. That's the beauty of archery there is so much variety and so many rabbit holes that are all a blast to go down.
Getting into archery can be a fun and exciting experience, but it's important to know the details of the equipment you need. Choosing the correct bow is a crucial step to getting started.
In the process of buying a bow, there are many things to consider; type, size, power, speed, and budget are just a few. In this shopping guide, we want to help you understand the different types of bows and other features of most bows.
The type of bow you choose will largely depend on your level of experience and personal preference. In archery, there are three main types of bow: compound bow, recurve bow, and longbow. Here are the differences between them:
"Beginning archers should consider looking for a bow with a significant range of adjustability up or down in draw weight and draw length. Such as all-in-one compound bows with ready-to-hunt gear that often include everything you need to get started." - Ron Dueker, Archery Insyder & Certified Master Bow Technician from the Archery Trade Association
Before you buy a bow, you'll need to know what draw length and weight will work best for you. Your draw length is the distance your arm needs to be able to reach to draw the bow back, while draw weight is the amount of force needed to pull the bow back.
To determine your draw length, you'll need a measuring tape and a simple calculation. Start by measuring your wingspan, or the distance from middle fingertip to middle fingertip with your arms stretched out to each side. Then use the calculation (Wingspan divided by 2.5) and then round up to the nearest half an inch. So if your wingspan is 68 inches, your draw length will be about 27.5 inches.
Once you have determined your draw length, you'll want to choose a bow that matches. Using a bow with an incorrect draw length can lead to poor shooting form, discomfort, and possible injury. It's important to select a bow that matches your needs and specifications to avoid issues and have an enjoyable shooting experience.
Next, you'll want to determine the appropriate draw weight. Make sure to choose a comfortable draw weight because using a bow with a draw weight that's too heavy will cause fatigue and poor accuracy.
Most adult bows have a draw weight range of 20-70 lbs. It is recommended that a beginner archer start light and work up to heavier draw weights as you get stronger and gain experience. A general rule of thumb is to choose a draw weight that is around 25% of your body weight. This is not a strict guideline, and individual factors should be considered. Also, you should consider the activity you're planning to do because hunting requires a heavier draw weight than target shooting. Check local and state laws for your hunting area for minimum draw weights needed for hunting.
The draw cycle is the transition from when you first begin drawing the string to the point you reach full draw. You want a smooth draw. If you struggle with your draw and need to jerk the string, it could affect your accuracy.
The let-off of the bow is the amount of energy that the bow releases once it reaches full draw. Recurve and longbows are easy to pull at first and get harder to pull as you reach the full draw. While compound bows start heavy and trail off.
A recurve or long bow starts out at zero. When you pull the string back, it gradually gets heavier and heavier the further you pull back the bow. At the end of the draw, you are holding the full weight. So if your bow has a 60 lb draw, you start pulling at zero and end up holding 60 lbs at full draw. Many archers prefer this style of bow because it starts easy, and they can build up their strength as they use it.
Compound bows, on the other hand, are hard to pull at first but get easier as you draw. For example, a 60 lb draw starts at 85% let off, which means you will be holding 9 lbs of draw weight when it's fully drawn. If you are new to compound bows, the draw cycle uses major muscle groups, and it's common for someone to struggle to pull their bow back for the first few days before you train those muscle groups to function together. It will get easier as you spend more time practicing, so don't give up too soon, but keep at it.
If you know the maximum draw weight you can pull, just reduce the number by 10 lbs, and you can be reasonably assured that you'll have a smooth draw cycle. If you're looking at a tradeoff between draw weight and arrow delivery speed, the rough estimation is that every inch of draw length is equal to approximately 10 feet per second of arrow speed. So if the draw weight is too heavy and you're struggling to fully draw your bow, it'll translate to lower performance with less arrow speed.
To make the draw easier, don't force yourself to use your maximum draw weight on your bow. Instead, use a lighter draw weight to focus on form and performance. It'll improve your draw cycle and keep things nice and smooth. You can always work up to a heavier draw weight later if you want to increase your skill level.
The brace height is the distance between the archer's grip and the string when at rest. A shorter brace height increases speed, is less forgiving accuracy-wise, and increases the potential for string slap (which is where the string smacks the shooter's forearm). A longer brace height is more forgiving because the string does not have to travel as far from our draw length to the point that it stops. A 30-inch draw length or longer will give you the smooth draw cycle you want. The advantage of using a longer bow is that it keeps the string angle from being too severe and provides stability when aiming.
Generally speaking, your brace height should be between 6-7 inches for recurve bows and 7-8 inches for longbows. If you use a recurve bow with adjustable limb pockets and risers, you can adjust the brace height by changing to different limbs or adjusting the limb pockets on the risers. Compound bows also have adjustable brace height.
Bow grips affect the way you hold your bow. Good grips can prevent canting and hand fatigue. If the grip on the bow isn't to your liking, you can customize it with a wrap or tape. If you want to shoot competitively or hunt with your bow, it's even more important to make sure your grip is secure and comfortable.
A mechanical bow release is a device that helps to ensure consistency and accuracy in your shots. A bow release is essentially a trigger that you use to release the string, as opposed to using your fingers. When it comes to choosing a bow release, there are several options available, each with its own unique benefits. The most popular types of bow releases are wrist releases, handheld releases, thumb releases, and index releases.
Wrist releases are attached to a strap that goes around your wrist, making them a popular option for beginners as they are easy to use. Wrist straps offer the convenience of being attached to you, so don't drop it accidentally while shooting and hunting. And you can use your arm and shoulder to hold the bulk of the weight when you pull back your string, leaving your hand free to move. These straps are typically adjustable, allowing you to adjust the tension and find the best fit for your needs. They require less time when transitioning between shots, making them an ideal choice for target shooting when looking for speed and precision. The release lever will either be an index finger trigger or a thumb release. Index finger releases are more like a trigger and offer a more natural feel for some archers, especially those coming from the gun world.
Handheld releases, on the other hand, provide more stability but require more time between shots for proper setup. They are beneficial for hunting because they don't require adjusting before each shot. They tend to be more popular with experienced archers who want more control over their shots. The handheld release usually has a thumb lever because, with a handheld release, you have to rely on your hand to draw the bow and hold the weight leaving only your thumb free to move to hit the trigger.
When choosing a release, consider what feels most natural and comfortable in your hand and what kind of archery you plan to do. For instance, if you're planning on hunting, you may want to opt for a wrist release as it is easier to use in the field. On the other hand, if you plan on shooting targets, a handheld release may be more appropriate as it offers more control.
If you're right-handed, you'll want to purchase a right-handed bow. This means you'll hold the bow in your left hand and draw with your right. If you're left-handed, you'll want to get a left-handed bow. You will hold the grip of the bow in your right hand and draw with your left.
When shopping for a bow, it's not just about having a bow and arrows, but adding the right accessories can make a world of difference in your shooting accuracy and overall experience.
Sights are an essential accessory for archers to improve accuracy. Different types of sights exist but they all aim to help align shots accurately. Multi-pin sights with adjustable pins for different distances are preferred by many archers. Sights can adjust from zero to three axes depending on the shooter's needs. Beginners can use 2-axis sights while hunters benefit from 3-axis sights for angled shooting. Regularly checking that the sight is level is important as an unlevel sight can throw off visual cues and reduce accuracy. In summary, investing in a high-quality sight and practicing with it regularly can significantly improve an archer's shooting performance.
Peep sights attach to the bowstring and help increase accuracy and precision when shooting a bow and arrow. They come in different sizes based on your needs with smaller sizes like 1/8" for steeper string angles. The correct size peep is important, with a larger one needed if you can't see your full sight through the peephole at full draw.
The placement of the peep sight on the bowstring also matters. It should align with your eye at the most comfortable position when at full draw. You then align the view through the peep sight with your front sight for the best accuracy.
Peep sights are especially useful for long-distance shooting where precision is critical. They allow you to line up your shot with greater precision, increasing the chances of hitting your target.
There are different types of arrow rests to choose from to provide support and proper positioning for your arrows. Drop-away rests are good for hunters as they provide accuracy with minimal contact to reduce noise. Whisker biscuits are ideal for beginners since they are simple to use and offer good support. Blade rests work well for target shooting due to their precise adjustability. Whichever rest you select, ensure it is installed and adjusted correctly for your bow setup as improper adjustment can lead to inconsistent shots and poor accuracy. Make the effort to configure the rest properly.
Stabilizers help archers improve accuracy and stability when aiming down a bow. They reduce float and vibration in the sight pins, dampening unwanted movement of the bow. Stabilizers can also balance out a front-heavy or back-heavy bow for improved comfort.
There are many types of stabilizers varying in length, weight, and design. Longer stabilizers provide more stability while shorter ones enable faster, more accurate shots. Heavier stabilizers absorb more vibration but can make the bow harder to handle.
The optimal stabilizer for an archer depends on their priorities. Those seeking to minimize vibration and noise benefit from a long, heavy stabilizer while archers wanting speed and accuracy do best with a short, lightweight stabilizer. Overall, archers must balance the trade-off between stability and weight. A longer stabilizer of any weight can provide similar effects to a shorter, heavier stabilizer.
An arm guard is an essential piece of equipment for archers. It covers the forearm, protecting it from painful string burn caused when the bowstring hits the arm during the shot. An arm guard allows archers to focus fully on their form, aim and shoot without the distraction of worrying about the string hitting their arm. String slap can also be reduced by adjusting the bow arm position and rotating the elbow up. Investing in an arm guard, regardless of skill level, helps archers enjoy the sport more by eliminating string burn and the distractions it causes.
Having the right arrows for your bow is essential for accuracy and consistency. It is recommended to have extra arrows as backups in case of damage or loss and for additional practice. When selecting arrows, make sure to match the arrow shafts and spine to your bow's draw weight and length as recommended by the supplier. The diameter of the field point tip and arrow nock also need to match your arrows properly. You want to make sure your arrow components have the proper fit for your arrows to ensure accuracy and consistency in your shots and the proper functioning of your arrows. Storing and transporting arrows in a quiver will keep them organized, protected from damage, and prevent them from getting lost.
A kisser button is an accessory attached to the bowstring that serves as an anchor point reference to ensure consistent placement on the face. Choosing a kisser button requires considering the material and size. Rubber and plastic kisser buttons are affordable and easy to install while metal ones are durable but reflect environmental temperatures. The size should align with the shooter's style to ensure hitting the corner of the mouth consistently with the peep sight.
There are two main types of targets for archery: bag targets and field targets. Bag targets are made of foam or cloth and are ideal for practice as they are portable and easy to set up. However, they wear out quickly if shot repeatedly in the same area, so rotating the target often extends its life. Field targets simulate real game with 3D animal shapes and are made of durable foam and rubber. Many have replaceable sections for the vital areas. Field targets are good for practicing accuracy but are bulky to transport. When choosing a target, make sure it can withstand the draw weight and length of your bow to avoid damage or safety issues from an arrow piercing through the target.
There are two primary shooting techniques; command shooting and surprise shooting. While both are effective, they differ significantly in their approach.
Command shooting is a more traditional method in which the archer knows precisely when they will release the arrow. With this technique, you control the movement and release the arrow with intention, using a specific aim point.
On the other hand, surprise shooting is a more fluid and intuitive approach. You don't know precisely when you'll release the arrow, as it is based on a set draw force that your release is automatically set to go off at. For example, your bow is set to 60 lb draw, and your release is set to 70 lbs. You pull your bow back to its set let-off point and hold it at full draw until you get close to your target, then pull back more to trigger your release. This method often results in a more instinctive and fluid shot.
While command shooting offers more control, it can also lead to overthinking and over-controlling the shot, which can hinder accuracy. In contrast, surprise shooting is a more relaxed and natural approach but can sometimes lack the precision and intentionality of command shooting.
If you struggle with "target panic" (feeling anxious when getting close to your target), it can sometimes be corrected by switching from command shooting to surprise shooting. There are several top archers in the world who use surprise shooting to maintain their composure and keep anxiety at bay.
Both techniques require practice and skill. The best approach is determined by your preferences and style. Some people even combine the two or alternate which they use depending on the situation they face at any given moment. Experiment with both techniques and see what works best for you.
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