“How do I make a liquid lipstick?”
This post is going to disclose all the secrets to make a matte long lasting liquid lipstick from scratch.
The info I‘ll provide is also a great starting point to learn how to make liquid lipstick at home and for fun.
At the end of the post, I will also show you which ingredient provides the smudge proof effect and how you can easily control it.
NOTE: the market for liquid lipsticks is highly competitive and close to saturation.
To be successful, you need a lipstick that stands out. The variety of formulations and shades is almost comprehensive. For this reason, I do not recommend to start a new beauty line with liquid lipstick as the first product.
I do not intend to discourage you, I’m simply offering honest advice. If you still want to pursue it, make sure you have an awesome marketing team and, of course, an adequate budget.
You can find almost all the ingredients you need on the internet or you can purchase a base and add the pigments to create your custom shades.
With so many liquid lipsticks on the market, it’s no surprise to see they have many ingredients in common.
After talking with hundreds of people, I realized one of the highest rated lipstick is the Jeffree Star- Velour.
It is a vegan and long-lasting lipstick. It’s not completely smudge-proof, but this is a plus as it doesn’t dry out your lips.
I‘ve never worked for Jeffree Star nor have any kind of relationship with this company. What I am going to write is merely based on my experience, intuition, and knowledge as a cosmetic chemist.
PRO TIP: To improve the performance of any lipstick, use a lip scrub before application.
How to make a liquid lipstick- The Ingredients
JS liquid lipstick ingredients — Click here
NOTE: there’s no guarantee the ingredients list you find on the producer’s website is the actual one, but it should list the key ingredients.
Isododecane. Is the solvent (carrier) you’ll find in 90% of the lipsticks out there. It is a volatile, colorless and odorless liquid.
Horrible (but cheaper) alternatives are paraffin/mineral oil. Better ones are some volatile silicones (for example trisiloxane, Cyclopentasiloxane or dimethicone).
Isododecane in a liquid lipstick formula is around 60%-65% and provides a non-tacky feeling while also minimizing the color transfer.
Trimethylsiloxysilicate: it’s responsible for the long-lasting, waterproof effect as film forming agent. Its % goes from about 10% up to 20%. Do not go way over 20% or you’ll get a lipstick that crumbles. Trimethylsiloxysilicate is highly soluble in isododecane.
Dimethicone contributes to the waterproof effect and acts as both film-forming and emollient. Its concentration varies from 16 to 20%.
Dimethicone belongs to the silicones class and it’s often used in liquid lipsticks for its emollient and waterproof properties .
Kaolin: opacifying and mattifying agent.
Synthetic Beeswax it’s used as a thickening agent at around 4%. Not all liquid lipsticks have waxes that are put in them. Fumed silica act as thickening agent, too. If you decide to use wax, do not put too much or the lipstick will be sticky.
Cyclopentasiloxane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, and Propylene Carbonate: three ingredients that are sold as a unique product called BENTONE GEL® VS-5PC V HV. In the U.S it’s distributed by DD Chemco (See details here). Cyclopentasiloxane is a volatile silicone.
This gel acts as:
-Viscosity increasing agent.
-Suspending agent (you need something that keeps your pigments suspended, or after a few days you’ll find them at the bottom of the bottle).
-Enhances skin feel.
You can incorporate Bentone Gel in the formula at around 5%. You must use a medium or high-shear mixer. You’ll see chunks at first. Do not proceed until all the chunks have been dissolved.
I know some of you don’t have a business address (yet! ) and thus don’t have access to ulprospector.com to request samples. As mentioned in my raw material report, most likely you’ll still be able to receive samples if you contact the company directly, and provide your UPS or FedEx account #.
If you really can’t find this ingredient, no worries. There’s a very close one here
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene enhances color shine and acts as emollient. I would use it in a lipgloss rather than matte lipstick.
Silica Dimethyl Silylate is a fumed silica that has been treated with a silicone.
-It prevents the pigments from “bleeding” into the lines of the lips.
– By increasing the viscosity of the formula, It prevents pigments from settling.
-It provides optimal pigments stability and water resistance.
Tocopheryl Acetate (vitamin E) is an antioxidant. It’s needed for stability or marketing reasons. Usually, you can’t go wrong by adding it at a 0.2%.
Hydrogen Dimethicone ensures adherence to the skin. It’s a difficult ingredient to source and not necessary.
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate it’s a UV adsorber and prevents shades variations besides protecting your lips.
Ethylhexylglycerin has a bacteriostatic (limits bacteria reproduction) and moisturizing effect. Due to a synergistic effect, the dosage of the preservative can be reduced when this ingredient is present. Unnecessary in this kind of products.
Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol is a preservative known as Lexgard HPO. A liquid lipstick, being an oil-based formulation, doesn’t require a preservative. I’ve formulated lipsticks with no preservative that were able to pass stability, pet and microbiological tests. However, remember that not adding a preservative could make you lose customers.
How to make a liquid lipstick-other common ingredients
–Nylon12. It’s used to increase payoff and texture.
–Synthetic Fluorphlogopite. It helps with the mattifying effect. Can replace talc, kaolin and similar.
–Polypropylsilsesquioxane: you’ll often find it in association with trimethylsiloxysilicate. It provides a silky smooth feel.
–Polyethylene: acts as a binder and increases hardness and slip.
–Trihydroxystearin is a thickening agent that can replace wax. Having a lower melting point, it can benefit volatile ingredients such as Cyclopentasiloxane (less heating required than waxes). Trihydroxystearin is a naturally derived (modified hydrogenated Castor Oil).
liquid lipstick: what are other common ingredients?
Liquid lipstick formula
Finally, it’s time to write down a formula.
This step might be tricky if you don’t have any formulation knowledge, but don’t worry because you can simply copy this one. I have eliminated some ingredients and added some others.
This is just a general formula that will definitely work, but of course, it can be further improved and customized. My goal here is to leave you some practical advice.
Isododecane 54.6%
Trimethylsiloxysilicate 17%
Dimethicone 15%
Bentone Gel 5%
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite 3%
Synthetic Beeswax 2%
Fumed Silica 2.5%
Tocopheryl Acetate 0.2%
Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol 0.2%
You’ll want to add pigments at the end to obtain your favorite shades. When making those shades, even a 0.01% variation can make a huge difference, so you really want to have an accurate scale. If you’re uncertain on what to buy, Ohaus is an excellent brand (this, in particular, has a readability of 0.01g and 200g capacity).
For the shades, I suggest you use iron oxides as a starting point as they’re easy to handle and give a very noticeable, strong coloration. Here you can find a great selection of pigments.
A huge variety of pigments can be used to make liquid lipstick
If you want to slightly modify the formula, don’t pay obsessive attention to the overall sum of the ingredients (that should yield 100% ) nor to the preservative. You can fix those details later, usually by adjusting the isododecane.
Instead, focus on the 3 key ingredients and try to find the best ratio (= the one that works best for you). The 3 key ingredients are trimethylsiloxysilicate, Bentone gel and dimethicone.
Feel free to leave out the preservative from your calculation as well. You might not even want to use it.
To make everything easier, start by making 100g of product.
By doing this, you don’t have to make any calculations with the ingredients. It’s straightforward. If the formula says 60% isododecane, the weight is 60 g. It’s that simple!
Need to purchase beakers, scale or other stuff? Take a look at this post.
Weigh the isododecane in a beaker and add the trimethylsiloxysilicate. It will dissolve easily.
Add the dimethicone and then the Benton gel. To exert its full potential, the Benton gel needs to be dispersed using a high shear mixer (this one is perfect).
Add the vitamin E and the preservative (if using it).
Add the fumed silica. This step is very important, fumed silica must be properly dispersed to exert its function. You should be using a high shear mixer and mix for at least 30 minutes. If you don’t have a high shear mixer, don’t use the fumed silica. Increase the wax by 2% instead.
Add the wax, melt it, and let it cool down while stirring.
Add the pigments while always mixing. If the mixing of the pigments becomes too difficult after adding the pigments, it’s possible to add them right before the wax when the viscosity is lower.
The most difficult thing when making a liquid lipstick is to achieve the perfect balance between a long-lasting effect and a comfortable wear. There’s no silver bullet for this. My suggestion is to try as many combinations as you can.
When you increase the trimethylsiloxysilicate, you’re aiming at making a completely smudge-proof, waterproof product. The liquid lipstick will form a hydrophobic film on your skin that gives a drying feel. This kind of lipstick usually has a very short list of ingredients, I would say 6 or 7 plus the colorants (for example this one).
To remove even the most stubborn lipstick, an oil-based remover is your only chance.
When I say oil-based, I don’t necessarily mean oils such as olive oil, coconut oil etc.
From a chemical point of view, what matters, is to use a low polarity substance ( for instance isododecane or Cyclopentasiloxane)
If you look at this bestseller make-up remover, you’ll see that it contains Cyclopentasiloxane and isohexadecane (which is very similar to isododecane).
Don’t wait. Start your own cosmetic line now! Work with us here at Luisa Fanzani and get a consultation for what you need, or buy from our pre-formulated options in our shop!
Have you ever tried to formulate a liquid lipstick? Which one is your favorite? Let me know in the comments section below
Everyone can safely say that lipstick can change our overall look completely. It changes our appearance and increases our self-confidence and ability to rock makeup and dresses. Whether it is a long lasting waterproof matte lipstick, liquid, or glossy, it is the most uncomplicated makeup we can easily remove without damaging the rest.
MRP: 199
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Keeping its importance in mind, many manufacturers produce different kinds and shades of lipstick that are long-lasting and smudge-proof. Branded lipstick moisturizes your lips and keeps them fresh and smooth for a long time. Each lipstick has different uses, ingredients, and ways of usage, and it is necessary to understand them to know which suits your skin tone, complexion, and attire.
Most matte lipsticks are thin, lightweight, and filled with pigment, but not all are waterproof. However, matte lipsticks from Neyah are smudge-proof, waterproof, non-transferable, and give full coverage. Purchase the best matte lipstick online from Neyah at affordable prices.
Matte lipsticks by Neyah quickly dry down and give you a clean and classy matte finish. The ingredients in matte lipstick that make it the best waterproof lipstick are mentioned below:
Bees Wax
Butylated Hydroxy
Toluene Dri flo
PC Polyethylene
Castor Seed Oil
Shea Butter
Hydro Generated Castrol Wax
Vitamin E Benzonic
Candelilla Wax
Tangerine Pink Carnauba Wax
And much more
All these ingredients are combined to make magical and beautiful matte lipstick in different shapes, sizes, and colors. The list of ingredients may vary from color to color and size to size. Get affordable and the best long lasting waterproof matt lipstick from Neyah.
Applying lipstick is more challenging than it sounds. To get the perfect color pop, it is essential to apply matte lipstick accurately. Follow the steps mentioned below to get the best results.
Moisturize your lips and then apply a small quantity of primer.
Get a lip liner of the same color as they give a perfect finished look and a fuller appearance.
Smoothly and carefully outline your lips but ensure not to make bold lines as it may look weird, and you must reapply it from the start.
Once done with the lip liner, apply the matte lipstick to complete the look.
If the matte lipstick is too dry on your lips, apply a thin shimmery lip gloss as a topper. Purchase glossy, liquid, or matte lipstick online without burning a hole in your pocket.
MRP: 199
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Many believe every lipstick requires the same ingredients, but it is inaccurate. As mentioned above, each matte, glossy, or liquid lipstick needs different ingredients to make it waterproof, smudge-proof, and long-lasting. To get the best liquid matte lipstick at affordable prices, you should try Neyah liquid matte lip lipstick. Here is a list of ingredients to make their liquid matte lipstick waterproof, non-transferable, and smudge-proof.
Silica
Argan Oil
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Ceresene
Bha. Vitamin E
Red Iron Oxide
Dimethicone
Propylparaben
Titanium Dioxide
Yellow 11 Iron Oxide/CI 77492
All these ingredients are incorporated to make the best and most affordable liquid matte lipstick. Remember, a few things may vary depending on the liquid matte lipstick's color, shape, and size. Get the best long lasting waterproof matte lipstick from Neyah in your favorite color.
Applying liquid matte is different from applying solid matte lipstick. Here, we have mentioned the best way to apply lipstick for beginners.
Always start from the middle portion of your upper lip, or you can also start from the lower lip.
After this, follow the contours of your lips and outline the entire lower and upper lip.
Then, fill the middle part of the lips as smoothly as possible to avoid any smudges or uneven tones.
Everyone deserves the best lipstick shade that is within their budget and gives the best results. Explore the wide variety of lipsticks from Neyah and order them today.