What is every pro’s top secret for how to apply foundation? Execute it without a trace. “I want people to say, 'Oh my god, your skin looks amazing!' not, ‘Your foundation is so great,’” makeup artist and brand founder Violette explains. And while finding the perfect formula is half the battle, once you have it, making like Houdini and ensuring it vanishes into your complexion is just as crucial. Here, in-demand makeup artists share their fine-tuned tips for how to apply foundation and achieve that ever-elusive, second-skin finish.
Clean and moisturized skin is a no-brainer, but to really supercharge your glow, begin with a hydrating mask and follow it up with a lymphatic facial massage. When makeup artist Nina Park works with clients such as Zoë Kravitz and Bella Hadid, she begins with a sheet mask specifically targeted to their skin type, with ingredients such as rose to combat oiliness, aloe to treat dryness, and green tea to soothe inflammation. After masking, gently massage your moisturizer into the skin to boost circulation and reduce puffiness. “It creates a natural flush that makes the face look more awake,” says makeup artist Kira Nasrat, who helps give Jessica Alba that perpetually luminous complexion.
To prime or not to prime? It’s an eternal question for amateurs and pros alike. While Violette typically skips the extra base step in the interest of using as little product as possible, when applied correctly, it can prolong foundation for all-day wear. “I use an anti-shine primer for hotspots like the forehead, hairline, sides of nose, and around the mouth, and then a sheer, illuminating one for the tops of the cheekbones,” explains Park, adding that she applies each with her fingertips.
Beauty is Boring makeup artist and photographer Robin Black says that while newer generations of powder foundations can give you that second-skin look, they only do so for certain skin types such as oily skin. For fool-proof application, she recommends using a liquid foundation. “Liquid tends to offer more options when it comes to natural finishes and level of coverage.”
Skip out on a full-coverage foundation and go for something more lightweight. The best foundation is the one that suits your skin type. For example, those with oil skin will want something that controls the excess oil and gives a matte finish whereas those dry skin will want a hydrating formula. We like something like the bareMinerals Original Pure Serum Radiant Natural Liquid Foundation Mineral SPF 20 which is packed with nourishing skincare ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and water lily extract to plump and soothe skin while also providing medium coverage. Plus it has a lovely radiant finish for that natural glowy look.
Ilia
Super Serum Skin Tint SPF 40 Foundation
The Minimalist Perfecting Complexion Foundation and Concealer Stick
Only apply foundation where it’s really necessary, insists Violette, who counts Estée Lauder Futurist Hydra Rescue Moisturizing Foundation with SPF 45 among her favorites. “Start in the center of the face, on the apples of the cheeks, and slowly blend out,” she instructs, adding that another key part of the face is the area around the mouth, which is prone to yellow undertones and shadows.
Black says to apply four dabs of foundation to the center of your cheeks, the low center of your forehead, and the center of your chin. From there, you’ll want to blend from the center of your face toward the edges, making sure you also blend the underside of your jawline and the top of your neck. (If your hair is going to be pulled back, she also recommends sweeping some product across your ears). “This technique helps keep most of the coverage in the center of the face where you are more likely to want it and it provides a very even base without the dreaded ‘foundation buildup’ along the hairline,” says Black.
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Ah, the age-old complexion question: When doing a full face of makeup, does foundation or concealer go first? While some makeup is self-explanatory—primer should go first and setting spray should go last—concealer and foundation are two things that don't have a specific order.
The short answer is that both orders are fair game since there are pros and cons to each. Some people swear by foundation first, while others are hardcore team concealer. Since this is a tricky subject, we tapped three professional makeup artists to get their hot takes, as well.
The Case for Applying Foundation Before Concealer
Most makeup artists and beauty editors fall under team foundation. Foundation is supposed to be the foundation of your makeup, so it only makes sense that it goes first. This is especially true if your goal is to hide skin unevenness, redness, or blemishes. "As a pro artist, I prefer to apply foundation first so that when I blend my concealer into the foundation, it looks completely seamless," says celebrity makeup artist Kim Baker.
When you apply concealer first, it often results in moving the concealer off of the area you originally intended to apply your coverage to. This means that if you're trying to hide blemishes, it will be much harder to achieve a high-coverage result, and you might wind up having to apply concealer after foundation on those spots again.
Plus, applying concealer first is a waste of product. Foundation is meant to even out your skin tone and reduce the need for concealer. So, until you've applied your foundation, it's hard to judge how much concealer you actually need to use. If you apply too much under your foundation, it can result in your final complexion looking cakey.
Celebrity makeup artist Robert Sesnek says he almost always likes to start by applying a light layer of foundation, and sometimes, that is enough if you're using the right formula. "I would say 90% of the time, I'm able to achieve flawless and perfect coverage with just foundation—and then I'll layer the concealer over if necessary. This allows for a softer, lighter, and more natural finish while still concealing blemishes."
How to Apply Foundation Before Concealer
If you're applying foundation before concealer, make sure the two products have the same or similar texture. Mixing different formulas, such as applying liquid concealer over a powder foundation, can sometimes lead to a cakey or uneven finish.
The Case for Applying Concealer Before Foundation
There are some benefits to applying concealer first. If you're planning on being photographed, for example, it might be a good idea to opt for concealer before foundation because flash can accentuate the points where concealer was applied.
"On the rare instances where I do apply concealer first, I'm almost always doing this technique for an editorial, photo shoot, or television appearance where the studio's lights can wash out the face easily," says Sesnek. "By adding concealer first and then highlighting and contouring, you're putting the tones of the skin back in, but in a more precise and controlled manner."
Another instance where you want to apply concealer first is if you're planning to spot-conceal and your concealer isn't a perfect match to your foundation. "If your concealer is too light, that is when it makes sense to apply the foundation over the concealer to conceal the fact that the product is not the same shade," says Baker.
Lastly, celebrity makeup artist Sebastien Tardif adds that if you have extremely dark under-eye circles or discoloration that need color-correcting, it might be worth applying color-correcting concealer before foundation and then following up with concealer again. Some concealers for dark under-eye circles, like Bobbi Brown Under Eye Corrector, are actually meant to be applied before traditional concealer. "The benefit of applying concealer first is that it goes exactly to the root of the issue. Foundation doesn't really do anything for concealing discoloration or fatigue around the eyes, so having a color-correcting base can effectively neutralize the appearance of fatigue."
How to Apply Concealer Before Foundation
If you're looking to contour, follow up with a concealer that is two shades lighter than your skin tone again (after foundation). "A concealer that is one or two shades brighter than your skin tone acts as a highlighter, which is what we see all the time on social media," says Tardif. "By doing this, you can brighten the eye area and get a contoured look—it's a win-win."
The Takeaway
While the majority of experts recommend applying a light layer of foundation before concealer, we admit there are instances where you benefit from a concealer first, like:
Besides those exceptions, keep in mind that concealer is much thicker than foundation, so apply sparingly after foundation if you want your makeup to look as natural as possible.