What Makes a Good Welding Table and Positioner?

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Ah, the age-old question that&#;s been keeping welders up at night (well, maybe not all night, but you get the point). As someone who&#;s been in the welding game for a while now, I can tell you that finding the perfect welding table and positioner is kind of like trying to find the holy grail &#; elusive, but oh-so-worth-it when you finally get your hands on it.

The Importance of a Solid Welding Table

Let&#;s start with the foundation, shall we? The welding table is the backbone of any good welding setup. It&#;s the sturdy surface that holds your workpiece in place, allowing you to work your magic with that trusty MIG or TIG welder. But what makes a good welding table, you ask? Well, my friends, it&#;s all about the stability, the size, and the versatility.

You see, a wobbly, rickety table is like trying to play Jenga with a blindfold on &#; it&#;s just not gonna end well. The table needs to be rock-solid, able to withstand the weight of your workpiece and the vibrations of your welding. And speaking of the workpiece, the table should be big enough to accommodate whatever you&#;re working on, whether it&#;s a delicate little project or a hulking metal behemoth.

But the real kicker is the versatility. The best welding tables are the ones that can be customized to your heart&#;s content &#; adjustable heights, removable tops, built-in storage, the works. I mean, who doesn&#;t love a little DIY action, am I right? It&#;s like having a trusty sidekick that&#;s always ready to lend a hand (or a dozen clamps) when you need it.

The Wonders of a Welding Positioner

Now, let&#;s talk about the unsung hero of the welding world: the positioner. This little (or not-so-little) guy is the key to taking your welding game to the next level. Imagine being able to rotate, tilt, or position your workpiece with the push of a button, instead of straining your back trying to get the perfect angle. Sounds pretty sweet, doesn&#;t it?

But a good positioner isn&#;t just about convenience &#; it&#;s about precision, too. When you&#;ve got a delicate project that requires a steady, consistent bead, a positioner can be a total lifesaver. No more trying to hold that panel in just the right spot while you&#;re sweating bullets (and possibly welding your fingers to the metal).

And let&#;s not forget about the safety factor. With a sturdy positioner, you can keep your hands far away from the sparks and molten metal, reducing the risk of nasty burns and other welding-related injuries. It&#;s a win-win situation, if you ask me.

The Dynamic Duo: Welding Table and Positioner

Now, you might be thinking, &#;Okay, I get it &#; a great welding table and positioner are important. But what&#;s the real difference? How do they work together?&#; Well, let me tell you, my friends, the synergy between these two tools is nothing short of magical.

Imagine this: you&#;ve got a massive steel beam that needs to be welded, and it&#;s too big to fit on a standard welding table. No problem! With a sturdy, adjustable table and a top-notch positioner, you can position that sucker just right, rotate it, and weld it up like a pro. The table provides the stable foundation, while the positioner gives you the control and flexibility to get the job done with precision.

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And let&#;s not forget about the versatility factor. With the right combination of table and positioner, the possibilities are endless. You can tackle everything from intricate metal sculptures to heavy-duty industrial fabrication, all with the confidence that your setup is up to the task.

Finding the Perfect Welding Table and Positioner

Alright, so we&#;ve talked about why a good welding table and positioner are so important, but the real question is: how do you find the perfect ones for your needs? Well, my friends, it&#;s all about doing your research and knowing what to look for.

First and foremost, you gotta consider the size and weight capacity of your table and positioner. Think about the biggest, heaviest projects you&#;ll be working on, and make sure your setup can handle it. You don&#;t want to be that guy who&#;s trying to weld a ten-ton piece of metal on a table that&#;s about to collapse under the strain.

Next up, take a good hard look at the features and customization options. Do you need a table with adjustable height? A positioner that can rotate 360 degrees? Maybe even some built-in storage for all your welding goodies? The more versatile your setup, the better.

And let&#;s not forget about the quality and durability. After all, you want your welding table and positioner to last for years, not fall apart after a few months of use. Look for sturdy, well-made materials, and don&#;t be afraid to invest a little extra for something that&#;s gonna stand the test of time.

Putting It All Together

So, there you have it, folks &#; the inside scoop on what makes a good welding table and positioner. From the importance of stability and versatility to the magic of combining the two, I&#;ve laid it all out for you.

Now, I know what you&#;re thinking: &#;But where do I find this mythical setup of which you speak?&#; Well, let me tell you, the team at https://www.corrconnect.org/ has got you covered. They&#;ve got a wide selection of top-notch welding tables and positioners, all built to last and loaded with features to make your life easier.

And the best part? They&#;re not just selling you the hardware &#; they&#;re providing the expertise and support to help you find the perfect solution for your needs. Whether you&#;re a seasoned welder or just starting out, they&#;ll work with you to make sure you&#;ve got the right setup to tackle any project that comes your way.

So, what are you waiting for? Head on over to https://www.corrconnect.org/ and let the team there help you find the welding table and positioner of your dreams. Trust me, your back (and your welds) will thank you.

keeena said:

Each measurement system has a smaller and larger config:
Metric: 16mm at 50mm spacing; 28mm at 100mm spacing
Bananas: 5/8" at 2" spacing; 1-1/8" at 4" spacing

In some cases I've seen some imperial tables feature metric holes (e.g. 16mm at 2" spacing).

My Q's:

• Do commercially available fixturing tools work with either size class? Or is the tooling specific to the hole size? I realize things like dowel pins would need to be exact fit, but do dogs and the expanding ball-bearing types of fixture pins fit both inch and metric holes?
  
  
• Does one hole size system (metric vs. inch) have better tooling availability?
  
  
• What would go into deciding between the smaller vs. larger holes and spacing (other than the effort of drilling more/less holes)? Should the spacing match the table size? Are fixtures more generally available in the larger spacing or hole size? etc...
  
  
• Is it worth considering a mix of bored and tapped holes?

My table top is 6'x4', 1" thick steel. I'm leaning towards metric holes and a multiple of the standard spacing for now; I figure I can drill the in-between holes in the future if need it.

I have a table which I plan on drilling fixture holes into (similar to what @jmkasunich did in this post) and had a couple questions about factors to consider related to the hole sizes and spacing.Each measurement system has a smaller and larger config:Metric: 16mm at 50mm spacing; 28mm at 100mm spacingBananas: 5/8" at 2" spacing; 1-1/8" at 4" spacingIn some cases I've seen some imperial tables feature metric holes (e.g. 16mm at 2" spacing).My Q's:My table top is 6'x4', 1" thick steel. I'm leaning towards metric holes and a multiple of the standard spacing for now; I figure I can drill the in-between holes in the future if need it.

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16mm is 0.", only 0.005" bigger than 5/8". From my research, tooling intended for 16mm holes works in 5/8" holes, and vice-versa. Although in theory a 16mm tool might not fit in a 5/8" hole if the hole is on the small side (drilled holes rarely are). I chose 5/8" because the slightly smaller holes means a bit less wobble. Plus it was easier to find a 5/8" rotabroach than a 16mm one.

2" and 50mm (1.969") centers are close but not the same, and unlike the hole diameter that difference accumulates over multiple rows of holes. I intend to make fixturing that uses the holes to hold things square and to size, so since I do mostly inch work, I chose an inch grid. If you are only using the holes for clamping or squareness, not size, it doesn't matter.

28mm is 1.102", which is 0.023 smaller than 1-1/8". So that tooling is not going to be interchangeable between inch and metric. The bigger tooling and 4" (or 100mm) centers seem appropriate for big tables and big work. Also that tooling seems to be a lot more expensive. That is a decision you need to make based on the kind of work you will do. Welding heavy structural stuff (4" pipes, 3/8" wall tubing, 8" I-beams, etc) means more clamp force is needed to hold stuff down. I don't do that heavy stuff, 90% of my welding is 1/8" wall or less. So the smaller, less expensive tooling makes sense for me.

16mm is 0.", only 0.005" bigger than 5/8". From my research, tooling intended for 16mm holes works in 5/8" holes, and vice-versa. Although in theory a 16mm toolnot fit in a 5/8" hole if the hole is on the small side (drilled holes rarely are). I chose 5/8" because the slightly smaller holes means a bit less wobble. Plus it was easier to find a 5/8" rotabroach than a 16mm one.2" and 50mm (1.969") centers are close but not the same, and unlike the hole diameter that difference accumulates over multiple rows of holes. I intend to make fixturing that uses the holes to hold things square and to size, so since I do mostly inch work, I chose an inch grid. If you are only using the holes for clamping or squareness, not size, it doesn't matter.28mm is 1.102", which is 0.023 smaller than 1-1/8". So that tooling is not going to be interchangeable between inch and metric. The bigger tooling and 4" (or 100mm) centers seem appropriate for big tables and big work. Also that tooling seems to be a lot more expensive. That is a decision you need to make based on the kind of work you will do. Welding heavy structural stuff (4" pipes, 3/8" wall tubing, 8" I-beams, etc) means more clamp force is needed to hold stuff down. I don't do that heavy stuff, 90% of my welding is 1/8" wall or less. So the smaller, less expensive tooling makes sense for me.

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