Just a couple more thoughts, based on my experiences using forging presses.... Beside what I mentioned about minimum cylinder size, there are a couple of other things that are "must haves" for me to even consider buying a particular press.1. MUST have a foot pedal operating mode. Beside convenience, having both hands free to hold/manipulate a billet is a major safety factor. On Orange Crush (my press), I have both an air operated foot pedal control, and a mechanically operated hand control. Honestly, the foot pedal is so easy/convenient, that I rarely use the hand control.2. Shielding for parts/hoses that are exposed to high heat. Most folks who build/sell presses have learned over time that this is a necessity. The place most often overlooked is the backside (the side away from the user).... a LOT of the hot scale and/or other hot stuff ends up on that side of the press, so it's only smart of have shielding or something to divert hot scale or other hot items away from hoses, electrical wires/wiring, or other critical components.3. Dies that are easily/quickly changed. Dies that are held in place by bolts are a bad deal for most presses. Why? Often times the repetitive heating/cooling will "freeze" the bolts in place (if you forge enough). You either have to constantly remember to spray the threads down with graphite or anit-seize, pretty much every time you remove/reinstall them.... and beside that, it's just plain time consuming to loosen, remove the bolts, put different dies in place, and tighten down the bolts.....all while they are usually far too hot to handle with bare hands.So what's the answer? Die holders that use dies that slide into place. In fact, dies that slide into place, and have some play in the way they mate up to the die holders, can save you from "hard breaking" your press.While it might seem that dies that are rigidly in place would be a good thing..... I totally disagree. It's all about understand the kinds of, and the amount of forces you deal with in a forging press..... I have seen far too many presses get broken in major ways, because the dies where locking in place, and caused other press parts to twist or tweak to the point of cracks, splits, or weld breaks.And finally, a word on dies. If you're new to forging presses, don't waste time, money, or effort, trying to find die materials that will hold up.... it won't happen.Before I had enough press experience/knowledge to understand it, I spent a big wad of money and made press dies out or D2 steel, thinking they would last forever..... NOT! Due to the intense/repetitive heat, any material used for press dies, that is "heat treated", will quickly get fully annealed out to it's softest state... and deform.Just resign yourself to building dies out of typical A36 hot roll. Buy pieces that are the sizes you need, and then tack weld them to your die plates in such a way that you can easily get at the weld with an angle grinder. That way when they have deformed too much, you simply zip off the tack weld(s), put a new piece in place, and tack weld it. I've been doing this for literally years on the same die plates.There are exceptions of course....but it would be for dies that see minimal exposure to the heat....such as the round dies that I use for creating the peens on my angle peen hammers .... they get a single press at a time, and have significant cool down time between presses.
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