ok I've owned 4 or 5 tractors through the years. Every implement I've ever bought that needed a PTO shaft came with one.today, I was tilling my garden spot getting ready to do something for the winter crop, and apparently my new LS tractor requires a longer PTO shaft than the old Ford that I've used this tiller with the last 4 years. It only overlapped about 3 inches, and it split out the end of the outer tube. This ones welded on, no pins to knock out and replace. by the time I buy some new tube and get it welded in, I'm not sure I'll have too much less than just buying a new shaft.so, how do I tell what this one is, style I think is italian or european? and are there different sizes?
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I'm pretty ignorant on swapping categories, so forgive me.
Okay, I admit it. This is a stupid question.. But I cannot find a good answer on the internet. Please forgive me.I have my 190XT with category II 3-point hitch. I realize (unless I'm wrong) that on many implements I can swap out the lift pins to make them category II as well. However, what about the PTO shaft? Are there differences? For example, a tiller that is cat I. Could I swap lift pins to make it cat II and have the PTO shaft function properly still?
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I don't think there is any difference in PTO, as long as its 540... and the correct length. Now hooking an 80 HP tractor to a 40 HP gearbox may have some consequences, though. Make sure that the drive line has a clutch or shear bolt, to protect the tiller...
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You don't modify the tiller pins ! You buy a couple 'Cat1 -Cat2 ' bushings, that slide onto the tiller's Cat1 pins then hookup to the 3PH, CAT2 liftarms.
The PTO will be 'universal'..as long as it's 540 and 1 3/8", 6 spline unit.
Early tractors (Ford 9N,2N..maybe the 'B' ?) had smaller diameter PTO shafts ( 1 1/8" ?). They didn't have a lot of HP, so didn't need the bigger diameter shaft. Since then the industry standardized on ONE size-fit-all. Course there's another 'standard' for the (?) RPM PTOs.....
Odds are real good, you've got enough HP to turn a 6' tiller. My D-14 can spin a 5' unit all day long.
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
The problem of just swapping Cat-II pins or adding the bushings to a Cat-I implement and hooking it to a Cat-II tractor is; The Cat-I is 26" wide at the pins and Cat-II is 32" wide at the pins. You need the Cat-I sway blocks or no sway blocks at all, then you don't have proper sway control.
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
We had an A.C. "C" that had the smaller PTO out put shaft.
917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
the "original" B tractor and maybe some C were 1- 1/8 inch as Jay said ( the small shaft on the C might have been added over the years)... .Allis later standardized on the 1- 3/8 inch that everyone was using... all 540 RPM.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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I'll look into the sway blocks, as that's something I could definitely see making a difference.
So would most tractors use the same length of PTO shaft? This is the part that still confuses me. I know PTO splines/diameters are universal between 540s and s (separately).. Although I didn't know the B/C had smaller shafts - so interesting!
I'm looking to upgrade my garden plot this year, and even move it completely. I've looked into rear tine tillers and they're a bit expensive for my taste.. The used selection is kind of terrible as well. Alternatively, I can just buy a 3 point tiller for less and even accomplish more work with less effort. Definitely considering it! Just would prefer to not have to replace a PTO shaft (for correct length) if possible.
Thanks again!
Thanks, everyone! I greatly appreciate the feedback.I've heard of these bushings for the lift pins. I didn't originally like the idea of them because it's just another part to lose when it sits in storage, but I can find solutions for that... other than the kiddos wanting to play with it, ha!
The measurement from the end of the PTO output shaft to the center of the draw pin, and the height of the shaft to the draw pin is a standard number. The length of the drawbar depends on the implement, where it's support bearing is, to the next u-joint. If the tractor shaft to pin measurements are correct, the shaft that comes with the implement should work. If it's lost or something....You can try another shaft, just be certain it won't run out of stroke when you turn a tight corner or go into a dip, and be certain it won't pull apart when going over a hump.
Thanks, Tbone. Much appreciated!
I guess my last question, and one I didn't have previously.. So it's likely unknown what the gearbox HP rating is on used equipment, understandably so. So let's just assume my 90HP+ is oversized. Shear pin is practically necessary on the implement, but it doesn't have one on this tiller I'm looking at.
Is the best solution to replace the PTO shaft on the implement then? I assume so, to get one with a shear pin. I know prices will vary widely, but is this pretty much a deal breaker or is it fairly affordable with a low budget? Oops. Another question. My bad.
Thanks again everyone! Much appreciated!
Well, I think I found answers. Apparently many rotary tillers use a slip clutch instead of shear pins. Makes sense, now that I know it exists. Even if I did need to replace the entire tiller shaft assembly, they're pretty affordable.
our bush hog mower has a shear pin... have a 5 ft tiller that has a splined shaff.. no shear pin.. we have used it that way for several years... If your tilling rocks and stumps it would not be a good idea... previous plowed field, or known grass field is doable.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
Definitely rocks here in MO, lol.
This would be a previously untouched plot, so would definitely find some rocks. Heck, I dig 100lb rocks out of my front yard.. Guaranteed there's just as bad in the field.
I have personally owned three (3) Model C tractors and they all have the 1 1/8" PTO shafts; my current Model C is a unit.
PaulB wrote:Going back to Paul&#;s point, you most likely can get by just removing one block if your cat 2 blocks have any wear. I put a ground down one on to use a cat 1 hitch bar that I only use for 1 job. Just make sure it doesn&#;t bind when lifting or will put extra wear one the joint eye&#;s.
also make sure the pto shaft does not bottom out and bend things up
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