PVC (polyvinyl chloride) is a popular synthetic plastic polymer that is available in both rigid and flexible forms. It is widely used in the production of pipes and other applications, such as doors and furniture. Its edge banding helps cover the exposed sides of materials, creating a strong, durable finish. It also helps cover the edges of furniture, giving them a more reliable appearance.
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Yodean Decor PVC Edgebanding is a premium PVC edgebanding material that is designed to meet the exact specifications of interior and exterior projects. It has an endless variety of applications and is easy to use on curved furniture shapes. It also offers excellent disposal properties. It is often included in public and private tenders. To order it, use our Edgebanding Finder. This handy tool will let you specify the dimensions, material, embossing, and board manufacturer.
Yodean Decor PVC Edgebanding features an extruded, solid-colored surface, which allows for clean rounding. It also features an impact-resistant formulation, which ensures long service life for milling tools. In addition, Yodean Decor PVC Edgebanding features a universal bonding agent that works with solvent-based and hot melt glues.
PVC Edgebanding is a durable and flexible material that&#;s easy to install. It&#;s easy to apply, thanks to a hot-melt adhesive that resists direct heat from an iron. It can be applied to virtually any surface, including laminate and TFL decors. During installation, make sure the area is dry and free of moisture, so the adhesive has time to set.
PVC edge banding is an ideal way to add a contemporary look to your furniture. It comes in different thicknesses and widths and is primarily applied to the curved parts of your furniture. It can enhance the look of your furniture and prevent it from fading.
Its strength and durability make it the most popular edgebanding material in the woodworking industry. It can be processed on all kinds of edgebanding machines, and it has high impact resistance. Another great advantage of PVC edge banding is its environmental responsibility. PVC is made from a polymer called Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS).
Edge banding comes in various forms, including pre-glued edge banding, 3D acrylic adhesive, and peel and stick edge banding. Choosing the best option depends on your project requirements and the type of furniture you are creating. PVC Edge Band is the fastest-growing edge banding material in India, and comes in a variety of styles.
PVC Edge Banding is a versatile option that gives your interior or exterior project a polished and durable appearance. It can be glued to almost any surface. PVC edge banding comes in wood grain designs, which are both attractive and durable. Moreover, these bandings are available in a variety of wood species. However, if you are looking for a more natural look, you should consider using solid wood edge banding. However, solid wood edge banding will only last for a few years when glued to the surface.
Edge banding is an important feature of most campus furniture, as it protects the surface from damage. Its aesthetic properties make it a desirable addition to campus buildings. Moreover, it offers durability and strength, which are essential for a campus environment. However, improper use of edge banding can cause an expensive maintenance problem.
PVC Edge Banding is the best choice for interior and exterior projects because it offers a long-term solution to any project. It&#;s versatile enough to be used for a variety of applications, including trade show exhibits, display cases, and office furniture. In addition to these uses, PVC Edge Banding is also thermally inert, which makes it a popular choice for interior and exterior projects.
Which is the better economical choice for low-volume, occasional edgebanding needs? March 25,
Question
I need a small scale solution to edgebanding by hand. (I normally use solid banding.) Should I get pressure sensitive or iron-on edgebanding?
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Forum Responses
(Cabinetmaking Forum)
From contributor L:
I've never used the pressure sensitive banding, but in general I'm never impressed with the adhesive's ability to stay stuck. I've had too many PS failures in items other than wood edging.
I am familiar with hand applying edging tape and I haven't had any failures as long as it was applied and pressed properly at the beginning. I've always caught any looming failures before they got into the finishing room. If you rub your finger along the tape you can hear it gets hollow sounding if there is a bad adhesion point.
We've used both the iron-on pre-glued and the FastTape from FastCap pressure sensitive. The FastTape saved a lot of time, but I would only recommend the PVC stuff for melamine - the real wood had more troubles in trimming, with the grain chipping out. My business partner thought that the FastTape allowed too much movement after it was trimmed, but a couple of our guys liked it. We used it on a big project that had a very tight timeline.
Otherwise, we like the iron-on type best. We build primarily face frame cabs, so we use it mostly on shelves, but are building more frameless contemporary style cabinets at some specific client and designer requests.
Thanks for the responses. I went with the iron-on type. It's only needed on shelves (face frame cabinets) so it won't be too bad. It will definately be quicker than gluing on solid banding.
I bought the Fastcap double/squeeze trimmer. However, from what I can see, it doesn't allow for trimming the ends. What's the most efficient way to do that?
I use a pair of old fashion tin snips. Once you get used to using them it is quick and easy. Just balance the snips on the edge of the wood and cut.Virutex makes a small plastic guillotine for the ends. Does a neat job.Buy a Virutex end trimmer. It's the same company which is well known for its double edge trimmer. The end trimmer is a cheap tool (under $30) which is worth its weight in gold. I use it for trimming all edge banding, even high pressure plastic laminate.We use the pre-finished Fastcap peel and stick banding for pre-finished plywood. It's best to let it sit overnight before trimming because the adhesive is wet and messy when first peeled. Sometimes a little glue will ooze out after trimming, but cleans up easily with naphtha. We've used this for several years on kitchens with no failures. Can't say that about iron-on.I will make due with the tin snips this go around because I have them here already. Can you get pre-finished iron-on? I would like to use pre-finished ply from now on, so the pre-finished banding would make sense.
Is the pressure sensitive easy to adjust before you roll it down, or does it grab like contact cement on first touch?
I primarily use pre-finished maple ply and I buy pre-finished iron-on. Works great, just don't dwell on one spot too long. Right now I am paying about 50 bucks for a 250 ft roll from Edgeco, here in NJ.I'm glad to know that that product is available for future use. How long should I allow the banding to cool before trimming the edges?I wait at least a minute:} I am probably wrong, but I iron it, put down the iron, pick up trimmer, trim. Above all, if you do not have it, get the VIRUTEX end trimmer. It is worth double its weight in gold. For edges, I only have the double blade hand trimmer. If I were doing miles of this, I would have to get other equipment.FASTCAP Fastedge is the only sane way to go. This stuff works great. The guy up top is right about the real wood banding chipping a bit, but there are ways around that. The PVC stuff works like a dream. It is so fast to apply with no hot iron sitting around. I can not say enough good about the product - it has definately made me some money even though it is a bit pricey. Also, Virutux plastic guillotine cutters work great until it snaps in half (plastic crap), but they also offer a tool that is a lot better quality made of metal and much more accurate. It also works like a dream and has not failed me once I adjusted it in. Again, I did have a little trouble with the pre-finished maple Fastedge, but it works out in the end with a flat block with some 150 grit paper stuck to it. I have had iron-on fail me too many times over the years. If you have to do it by hand, Fastcap Fastedge is the way to go.What do you do to prevent the veneer from chipping out? Would rough trimming with a straight bit work better than the edge trimmer? That dispenser box is a stroke of genius with the built-in length indicator. I'll have to do an experiment with this stuff compared to regular heat activated edgebanding.The Fastedge tape grabs like contact. We've been trimming edge tape with a sharp plasti-cut file for years. Trimmer bits clog up with glue real fast and you still have to pick up the file. When filing pre-finished, keep the file at a steep angle for the final strokes to prevent scratching finish and keep that card file close by. It takes a little practice to master but when you do, you'll be silly fast.I am new to the cabinetmaking business and would like to know the best way to edgeband cabinets made from melamine to withstand high humidity areas without peeling?It's true that the Fastedge works great! I just experimented with a small roll of the white PVC and once the edges are trimmed, the tape is not coming off any time soon. It's much less brittle than the melamine/polyester stuff as well.
For those of you who own a cheapo Jet/Freud/Woodtek hot air edgebander like I do, you can actually feed it through the machine (turned off), although you'll need to place the roll on top of some wax paper since the glue extends all the way to the edges and will stick to the edgebanding tray. You will need to lean on the guillotine a second or third time to rough trim as the PVC is a little bit tougher to cut. The Virutex edge and end trimmers will work, although I'm finding success with just using a seven degree bevel bit to combine rough and finish edge trimming. I may try the no-file laminate trimming bit if the bit gums up with glue on longer runs. One more small step forward for the small shop!
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