Ttrees said: @hennebury
If beveling isn't the sole reason that they choose to use a plane like that, then I'd like to stand corrected...........Two folks here I know of use both, @IWW If beveling isn't the sole reason that they choose to use a plane like that, then I'd like to stand corrected.....
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Actually, Tom, the plane I use most for easing edges is my "English thumb plane". Before I made that I used a Veritas "apron plane", but the new plane is just so much nicer to hold, & the poor little Veritas has been made redundant. Neither has a cap-iron, being low-angle BU jobbies:But I sometimes use an even smaller plane, or a spokehave, or a scratch-stock, it depends what treatment the edge is getting & how big the piece is. I occasionally use a plane with a cap-iron for this sort of job, a small rear-bun smoother, but really, a cap-iron isn't necessary, it's usually easy to read the grain & go with it. If the grain is so wild a plane can't handle it I just use a rasp & a lick of sandpaper.And yeah, I always do this sort of job by eye, or occasionally 'finger-gauge' some lines with a pencil if it's a large round-over, to help keep them even & straightOne of the handiest home-made tools for profiling edges is a scratch-stock. Anyone who isn't familiar with this extremely simple tool is missing out on one of the handiest tools in a cabinet shop, imo!:A scrap of hard wood, a bit of old saw-plate or worn-out scraper blade & about 10 minutes & you have a scratch-stock. There's no limit to the number of small profiles you can make (or match if repairing some old piece). The harder the wood, the better it scrapes, and it's surprisingly quick. No screaming routers, & no dust......One of my favourite edge treatments is a "quirked bead". These legs for a pedestal table took about 20 minutes to do with a scratch-stock:Cheers,Ian
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