The following is an excerpt from OSHA 1910.28 (b) that covers the responsibility for fall protection on working and walking surfaces. Please review the full code for further information.
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1910.28(b)(1)
Unprotected sides and edges.
1910.28(b)(1)(i)
Except as provided elsewhere in this section, the employer must ensure that each employee on a walking-working surface with an unprotected side or edge that is 4 feet (1.2 m) or more above a lower level is protected from falling by one or more of the following:
1910.28(b)(1)(i)(A)
Guardrail systems;
1910.28(b)(1)(i)(B)
Safety net systems; or
1910.28(b)(1)(i)(C)
Personal fall protection systems, such as personal fall arrest, travel restraint, or positioning systems.
1910.28(b)(3)(i)
Each employee is protected from falling through any hole (including skylights) that is 4 feet (1.2 m) or more above a lower level
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1910.28(b)(5)(i)
The employer must ensure each employee on a runway or similar walkway is protected from falling 4 feet (1.2 m) or more to a lower level by a guardrail system.
1910.28(b)(6)(i)
Each employee less than 4 feet (1.2 m) above dangerous equipment is protected from falling into or onto the dangerous equipment by a guardrail system or a travel restraint system, unless the equipment is covered or guarded to eliminate the hazard.
1910.28(b)(15)
Walking-working surfaces not otherwise addressed. Except as provided elsewhere in this section or by other subparts of this part, the employer must ensure each employee on a walking-working surface 4 feet (1.2 m) or more above a lower level is protected from falling...
If the piece can be pushed back down easily enough and held there with a little weight like a flower pot or similar, use clear water based caulk to inject into the gap as much as possible. Get it in as deep as possible along the length of the gap. A fine cut tip will aid in doing so. Fill the gap, and when it is pressed down the excess will push out and around the groove a little that is broken off that you don't see. After the weight is added to hold everything down, clean up the excess and let it set for 2 or more days while the caulk dries INSIDE the space. Air will not get to it easily for it to dry rapidly, so patience is needed here.
Polyseamseal(R) Is my choice for the job. It is water based, rated as an adhesive and comes in clear. It is available in small tubes so you can use the applicator if you like.
The adhesive will ooze out, you want it to. You also want it to go in as far and wide as possible too.That is why the clear caulk. Some will be left in the groove between the planks. The idea is to have a bucket or sink close by to rinse the sponge out frequently. Squeezing out as much water as possible so water does not puddle while cleaning. The caulk will go down white and dry clear. Do not let the sponge be so wet it will wash out the caulk you are trying to clean up. That is why squeezing it out as much as possible and cleaning frequently. Change the rinse water and clean again. Make sure all caulk is off the surface only. The white line between the pieces will dry clear and it won't be seen in time, a few hours. To affirm a prior comment, make sure the weight you use will hold the plank down. With the caulk everywhere before cleanup, it is the only chance to see the gap tight until the caulk is cleaned up
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