Best affordable insulation ? - Small Cabin Forum

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ontariogirl

Member
Reply  # Posted: 1 Jan 04:17pm

Building a 12Ã&#;16 cabin w/loft. Metal roof.
Going to start insulating it this week and I am struggling to decide whether I want to use spray foam, fiberglass or something else. Any advice would be appreciated

Irrigation Guy

Member
Reply  # Posted: 1 Jan 04:41pm

Spray foam will be best but affordable is a subjective term.

Nate R

Member
Reply  # Posted: 1 Jan 04:54pm

If you want affordable, put in fiberglass batts and make sure your airsealing details are carefully done.

gcrank1

Member
Reply  # Posted: 1 Jan 05:35pm

I like to use something I can do myself with simple tools and skills. And if you build the structure well and airtight it will heat decently as is, just wont hold it long (but longer than a tent!).
Fwiw, I did my '83-'84 12x24 c/w 12x12 loft, Swiss chalet style with 1" blue DOW styro under the floor (between the joists) and the walls. I had intended to do the cath ceiling 'someday' and never got aroundtuit.
Once we got the deep chill (the cold sink) out of the interior and everything inside became the heat sink it really did stay warm with the little wood stove. We often wore 'light clothes' inside and opened the door a bit to vent.
Yeah, spray foam would have made it built like a Yeti cooler, I guess....but sometimes I gotta ask myself,"how much is enough?".

Brettny

Member
Reply  # Posted: 1 Jan 06:26pm

12x16 even if you use r13 fiberglass every where and air seal decently good even a normal size buddy heater should keep you warm. But two 250sqft diy spray foam kits should easily do the walls, ceiling and floor.

Have you priced out getting spray foam done? I did last month and just simply asked for the square foot price. I got quoted $0.90 per inch per square foot. Generally its r6-7 per inch.

If you plan on keeping this place for a while I suggest at least spray foaming the roof then everything else with fiberglass. If you dont plan on keeping it foam batts in the ceiling and dont do a thing else.

ontariogirl

Member
Reply  # Posted: 1 Jan 07:22pm

Thanks. I think I will do fiberglass on the walls for now. Maybe spray foam the roof later on.
I have zero experience so I prefer the simpliest methods as well. It will be hard to screw up the fiberglass I hope

rpe

Member
Reply  # Posted: 2 Jan 08:45am

There are pros and cons to each. Here's my thoughts:

Spray foam is great from an insulation and sealing point of view, but it is highly flammable and when burning creates suffocating fumes.

Fiberglass batt insulation is usually the cheapest, but has the lowest R-value per inch. It's flimsy to work with, critters love it, and if it gets squashed, doesn't spring back nicely, ruining the R-value.

Rockwool (Roxul) is a bit better insulator, a bit more expensive, and much nicer to work with IMO. It holds it's shape well, cuts easily with a bread knife, and if fit properly, holds nicely in place between the studs/joists while awaiting vapour barrier. It also doesn't bother my skin nearly as much as fiberglass.

razmichael

Member
Reply  # Posted: 2 Jan 09:52am

Quoting: rpe

Rockwool (Roxul) is a bit better insulator,

Rockwool (Roxul) is a bit better insulator,

Second this. Cost difference for a small space is not much but ease of use and effectiveness is much better. Cut with a bread knife, expands into space, less itchy - well worth the slight cost difference (although way back it was much more expensive in the US than Canada - not sure now).

gcrank1

Member
Reply  # Posted: 2 Jan 10:34am - Edited by: gcrank1

Affordable....hmmm, that is going to be tough. A quick check online just now (USA) shows rock wool batts about 70% more than comparable fiberglass, and the fg aint inexpensive either.
For a small structure Id consider it. But once again I just realized there is no way I could afford to build a whole house at the price of building materials nowadays!

rpe

Member
Reply  # Posted: 2 Jan 01:12pm - Edited by: rpe

gcrank1, you are right on the price difference. The per-bundle price is similar, but the coverage is much greater for the fiberglass, as it can be compressed greatly for packaging and shipping. My local HomeDepot pricing (Ontario) shows:

Pink Fiberglass - $53.50 R12, 97.9 ft^2, 54.6 cents/ft^2

Rockwool - $55.39 R14, 59.7 ft^2, 92.8 cents/ft^2

Having installed both (as an amateur mind you...), I greatly prefer the Rockwool. I bet the amateur-installed R-value difference is greater than the R12/R14 indicates also, as getting a good fit with proper cavity fill is much easier with the more rigid batts. No, I don't work for the company.

Following paulz's lead, I keep an eye out for partial or excess bundles of Rockwool on local FB Marketplace and Kijiji. I got 24 bundles for less than half retail price from a guy that was renovating an old historic building near me. In the end, the construction was so varied that the batts weren't going to work well for him. He went the spray foam route, and the installer got overspray over Rockwool bundles, and other bundles got ripped in handling, and he couldn't return them.

gcrank1

Member
Reply  # Posted: 2 Jan 01:47pm

Well done!
Wish I had a small pole building to put 'savaged' and sale materials in, AND in order and accessible, before a build.
Iffn I were you, OG, Id think about not insulating right away and using it 'for a year' while scaring up some rock wool or fg like rpe did. That would also give a chance for running elec wiring and/or gas piping, etc. before closing up the walls. Seems there is always something I should have done......

Brettny

Member
Reply  # Posted: 2 Jan 02:14pm

I have a 10x14 shed with only 2in of foam board in the ceiling. I have those foam puzzle tiles on the floor. 20f* at night and we survived. Wood stove for primary heat and buddy heater for secondary. Usualy about 4am il wake up and light the buddy heater. Above 30f at night and the stove will last all night. I plan on building a real cabin in the future so dont want to spend any more money than what's needed on this shabin.

I see a roll of R13 is about $20 a roll now yet 8yrs ago when I re insulated my house it was closer to $12.

gcrank1

Member
Reply  # Posted: 2 Jan 02:17pm

Fiberglass batts were way higher than that this morning.

Houska

Member
Reply  # Posted: 2 Jan 04:47pm

I also echo looking at Rockwool. Much better product than fiberglass for most purposes.

I understand it has historically been more expensive (+20-30%) in the USA per batt / sq ft of wall (though it is also higher R-value), but that the price difference is a lot less in Canada.

Last time I checked at my local Rona it was about 10% more expensive.

LittleDummerBoy

Member
Reply  # Posted: 2 Jan 06:58pm

I recommend you avoid installing mouse habitat.

ontariogirl

Member
Reply  # Posted: 2 Jan 08:23pm

Haha thanks. My dad and I just finished the electrical yesterday so I think i'm ready to insulate. Sounds like Rockwood is the way to go.

rpe

Member
Reply  # Posted: 2 Jan 09:50pm

LDB, that's another benefit of the Rockwool - critters don't like it.
Houska, the price per bundle is very similar, but coverage area per bundle is much more for fiberglass as it is compressed significantly when packaged. See my numbers above. Cost for Rockwool is significantly more, but worth it IMO.

Brettny

Member
Reply  # Posted: 3 Jan 06:52am

Quoting: gcrank1

Fiberglass batts were way higher than that this morning.

Fiberglass batts were way higher than that this morning.

$19 was for a roll not batts. I believe 38-40ft long for 16in OC.

Someone on here used Rockwol in Hope's it wouldnt be as attractive to mice. It didn't work. Best thing you can do is build things square, level and seal everything up. Spray foam alone is not a seal to a mouse.

Houska

Member
Reply  # Posted: 3 Jan 06:58am

Quoting: rpe

Houska, the price per bundle is very similar, but coverage area per bundle is much more for fiberglass as it is compressed significantly when packaged. See my numbers above.

Houska, the price per bundle is very similar, but coverage area per bundle is much more for fiberglass as it is compressed significantly when packaged. See my numbers above.

Interesting. I think your numbers are HD, 3.5" insulation. I've just looked at my local independent lumber yard's price list (a month old, so may be out of date) and for 5.5" insulation it's C$1.27/sq ft for the Rockwool vs C$1.02/sq ft for the fiberglass. So more than the 10% difference I remembered (I may be misremembering or may have miscalculated the bundle coverage adjustment in my head when I saw it). But also quite a bit less than the ~70% premium you're seeing.

In any case, unless money is *extremely* tight, I'd pay the extra, since installing insulation is a real pain, and redoing it later or shivering due to moisture issues is an even bigger pain. Personally, I value the environmental benefits too.

gcrank1

Member
Reply  # Posted: 3 Jan 01:21pm - Edited by: gcrank1

Ok, just now, Home Depot, faced 3.5" x 15" x 32' R-13 Knauf roll is $22 USA. Way cheaper than batts.
Id call that affordable, but still a bit itchy.....
If the rock wool came out up to 50% more to cover the same square footage Id go with it. Thats my conclusion as an admitted 'cheap guy'.

KinAlberta

Member
Reply  # Posted: 3 Jan 04:36pm - Edited by: KinAlberta

Myself, I sure liked using the Rockwool (Roxul) in our basement reno.

If you live in a northern climate, before you use fiberglass batts try an internet search for fibreglass and cold weather convection. Years ago, I recall tests saying that fibreglass lost 50% of its insulating ability in deep cold - just when you need it the most. Cellulose didnâ&#;&#;t. I don't know if that was ever proved out or not.

However I was always surprised at how highly ranked cellulose comes out in most tests and reviews.

Found this:

Cold-Weather Performance of Polyisocyanurate
Researchers are beginning to understand the causes of the problem, but solutions remain elusive
By Martin Holladay | September 4,

Excerpts:

â&#;œIt's R-6 per inch during the summer, but only R-4.5 per inch on a cold day in winter. The insulating performance of polyisocyanurate insulation is significantly degraded at cold temperatures.


â&#;œ... The ability of insulation products to resist the flow of heat changes with temperature. Most insulation products â&#;&#; including fiberglass batts, extruded polystyrene (XPS), and expanded polystyrene (EPS) â&#;&#; perform better at low temperatures than high temperatures. At lower temperatures, there is less conduction, less convection, and less radiation â&#;&#; so insulation materials usually work better than they do at warmer temperatures.

However, one type of rigid foam, polyisocyanurate, doesnâ&#;&#;t follow this pattern. At temperatures below...â&#;

https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/cold-weather-performance-of-polyisocyanu rate

Cold-Weather Performance of PolyisocyanurateResearchers are beginning to understand the causes of the problem, but solutions remain elusiveBy Martin Holladay | September 4, Excerpts:â&#;œIt's R-6 per inch during the summer, but only R-4.5 per inch on a cold day in winter. The insulating performance of polyisocyanurate insulation is significantly degraded at cold temperatures.â&#;œ... The ability of insulation products to resist the flow of heat changes with temperature. Most insulation products â&#;&#; including fiberglass batts, extruded polystyrene (XPS), and expanded polystyrene (EPS) â&#;&#; perform better at low temperatures than high temperatures. At lower temperatures, there is less conduction, less convection, and less radiation â&#;&#; so insulation materials usually work better than they do at warmer temperatures.However, one type of rigid foam, polyisocyanurate, doesnâ&#;&#;t follow this pattern. At temperatures below...â&#;

Cellulose or Fiberglass Insulation, Which is Better for Your Attic? | News and Events for Dr. Energy Saver, Inc

Excerpts:

â&#;œR-Value
R-value measures the resistance of heat flow through a material â&#;&#; the higher the R-value, the better the material is at resisting heat flow. In most situations, we prefer the air and heat flow resistance of cellulose over that of fiberglass. At 3.5 per inch of material, the R-value of blown-in cellulose is 23% better per inch than fiberglass batts!

According to research done at the Oak Ridge National Lab, fiberglass loses up to 50% of its R-value in very cold conditions; making cellulose a better choice for homes in northern climates. In the summer, according to research by the Brookhaven National Lab, fiberglass ...â&#;

https://www.drenergysaver.com/about-dr-energy-saver/news-and-events/-cellulose-o r-fiberglass-insulation-which-is-better-for-your-attic.html

Cellulose or Fiberglass Insulation, Which is Better for Your Attic? | News and Events for Dr. Energy Saver, IncExcerpts:â&#;œR-ValueR-value measures the resistance of heat flow through a material â&#;&#; the higher the R-value, the better the material is at resisting heat flow. In most situations, we prefer the air and heat flow resistance of cellulose over that of fiberglass. At 3.5 per inch of material, the R-value of blown-in cellulose is 23% better per inch than fiberglass batts!According to research done at the Oak Ridge National Lab, fiberglass loses up to 50% of its R-value in very cold conditions; making cellulose a better choice for homes in northern climates. In the summer, according to research by the Brookhaven National Lab, fiberglass ...â&#;

KinAlberta

Member
Reply  # Posted: 3 Jan 04:41pm

Interesting:



Is Compressed Fiberglass Insulation Really So Bad? | Energy Vanguard

I've been guilty of perpetuating a myth. Last month I wrote an article in which I said installing insulation, "cavities are filled completely with as little compression as possible." But is compression really such a bad thing? When I posted that same article on Green Building Advisor, commenter Dana Dorsett wrote, "Compression of batts is fine (resulting in a higher R/inch due to the higher density) as long as the cavity is completely filled."

He's right. Compression isn't the problem. Incompletely filled cavities are a problem. Gaps are ...â&#;

https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/compressed-fiberglass-insulation-really-so-bad

Is Compressed Fiberglass Insulation Really So Bad? | Energy VanguardI've been guilty of perpetuating a myth. Last month I wrote an article in which I said installing insulation, "cavities are filled completely with as little compression as possible." But is compression really such a bad thing? When I posted that same article on Green Building Advisor, commenter Dana Dorsett wrote, "Compression of batts is fine (resulting in a higher R/inch due to the higher density) as long as the cavity is completely filled."He's right. Compression isn't the problem. Incompletely filled cavities are a problem. Gaps are ...â&#;

gcrank1

Member
Reply  # Posted: 3 Jan 04:46pm

Unless yer trying to insulate a cath. ceiling with fg then a gap at the deck side is a good thing.
There's always something.......

Ever felt that chilly draft sneaking through your walls, even when the heater&#;s on full blast?

You&#;re not alone.

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Many homeowners face the same chilly challenge.

But what if I told you there&#;s a way to keep your home cozy without breaking the bank?

And no, it&#;s not about cranking up the heat.

Insulation.

It&#;s the unsung hero of our homes, silently battling the cold and keeping our energy bills in check.

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In the end, you&#;ll be armed with the knowledge to transform your home into a warm haven, without emptying your savings.

And who knows? You might even have a little fun along the way!

1. Straw Bale

Image Credit: Shutterstock

Straw bale is an eco-friendly and cost-effective insulation option. This natural material is highly regarded for its insulation capabilities and can be an excellent choice for those looking to insulate on a budget.

2. Recycled Denim

Image Credit: Shutterstock

Made from reclaimed denim fabric, this type of insulation is environmentally friendly and doesn&#;t contain any formaldehyde. It also offers excellent insulation properties and is a suitable choice for interior walls.

3. Sheep Wool

Image Credit: Shutterstock

Sheep wool is another natural insulation material with great thermal and moisture-regulating properties, providing a comfortable environment inside your home. It is easy to install and can serve as an effective insulation for your interior walls.

4. Loose-Fill Vermiculite and Perlite

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Vermiculite and perlite are lightweight, inexpensive materials that can be added between wall studs to aid in insulation. Both of these loose-fill insulating materials are fire-resistant and provide exceptional thermal insulation.

Read More: The Best Insulation For Exterior Walls

5. Reflective or Radiant Foil

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Although more commonly used in attic spaces, reflective foil can also be used within interior walls to help reduce heat transfer. Installing these materials can contribute to an energy-efficient home and potentially reduce cooling costs by up to 10%.

6. Fiberglass Batts

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Fiberglass batts are a go-to insulation option for many homeowners because of their affordability and effectiveness. These insulation panels are made from glass fibers mixed with plastic materials, and they help trap heat before it spreads throughout the home.

7. Blown-in Cellulose

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Blown-in cellulose is made from recycled wood or plant fibers, providing an eco-friendly insulation option. This material is blown into wall cavities during installation, making it suitable for new constructions and existing homes that require retrofitting.

Read More: The Best Types Of Insulation For Sheds

8. Stone Wool (Mineral Wool)

Image Credit: Shutterstock

Stone wool, also known as mineral wool, is more popular recently due to its higher R-value and ease of installation compared to fiberglass batts. With fire and water resistance properties, this insulation material can prove to be a cost-effective choice for interior walls.

9. Rigid Foam Boards

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Rigid foam boards, constructed from durable materials like expanded polystyrene, extruded polystyrene, and polyisocyanurate, provide insulation at a reasonable cost. While their R-value may not be high, combining these boards with other types of insulation can increase the overall effectiveness.

10. Spray Foam

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Spray foam insulation is available in open or closed cell forms, with the latter having a higher R-value per inch, leading to better insulation. Although closed-cell spray foam can be more expensive, both types offer effective insulation for your interior walls.

Read More: Metal Building Insulation Options and Costs

Frequently Asked Questions

What are some budget-friendly ways to insulate interior walls?

There are several cost-effective options for insulating your interior walls, including:

• Radiant barriers
• Stone wool
• Fiberglass batts
• Blown-in cellulose
• Rigid board
• Spray foam

Each of these alternatives has its own advantages and can be used in different situations, depending on your needs and budget.

Are there any low-cost alternatives to conventional insulation?

Absolutely! Some low-cost alternatives to traditional insulation materials are:

• Reflective foil insulation
• Recycled denim insulation
• Sheep&#;s wool insulation
• Rigid foam panels
• Expanded polystyrene (EPS)

These alternatives can provide excellent insulation performance at a fraction of the price of traditional insulation materials.

What R-value should I aim for when insulating internal walls?

For interior walls, an R-value between R-13 and R-15 is generally recommended. This range provides an optimal balance between insulation efficiency and cost. However, always consider your local climate and specific needs when choosing the appropriate R-value for your project.

Which insulation is the most cost-effective for 2×4 walls?

Fiberglass batts are typically the most cost-effective option for insulating 2×4 walls. Not only are they relatively inexpensive, but they&#;re also easy to install and provide excellent thermal resistance for their cost.

Are there any downsides to insulating interior walls?

There can be some drawbacks to insulating interior walls, such as:

• Increased upfront costs
• Reduced interior space due to thicker walls
• Potential for moisture issues if not properly installed
• Installation can be disruptive

However, the benefits of insulating your interior walls (like improved energy efficiency and noise reduction) often outweigh these drawbacks.

What building codes should I be aware of for internal wall insulation?

Building codes related to internal wall insulation can vary depending on your location. It&#;s important to consult your local building department or a professional contractor to ensure that your insulation project complies with all relevant building codes and ordinances.

Want more information on Thermal Insulation Materials? Feel free to contact us.